Bric-a-Brac 70
A three-day, pack-it-in itinerary in Buenos Aires, a chic new place to stay in the center of Athens, and the best French travel mirror.
JUST BACK FROM… Buenos Aires
By Carly Shea
While I’d always wanted to visit Buenos Aires, it wasn’t until last December, with some 10,000 miles needed to maintain my Medallion status, that I spun the globe to find somewhere far enough, found a cheap flight, and booked a long weekend on a whim. It's a rather unromantic way to end up in a decidedly romantic city, but several friends who had lived there told me that it was the perfect time of year to visit—the Jacarandas would be in bloom and the weather would be a nice respite from the New York winter, but the city would be relatively empty before the crowds arrived in January.
With just three days to explore the city, I was determined to hit the ground running straight off the red eye. I dropped my bags at my hotel and headed out the door to walk through the city center, stopping to watch old couples, school groups and dog walkers go about their days in the Plaza de Mayo before continuing on to San Telmo Market for the first of several coffees to stave off jet lag. It was almost noon but it felt like the city was still waking up—the market stalls were setting out their wares, everything from spices and empanadas to fruit. The market dates to 1897, when it opened to cater to the many European immigrants arriving in the city, and still occupies the same original structure, which takes up an entire city block. Sunday is supposedly the best (and busiest) day to visit, when the San Telmo Street Fair swallows the market and its surrounding streets with even more stalls selling crafts and antiques. Even if you’re not visiting over a weekend, the market is worth visiting on a stroll through charming San Telmo. There are some great vintage shops in the area as well—I popped into Mercado Argentino Vintage, a quirky spot with old arcade games in the back and a very impressive assortment of used leather jackets, pants, and boots (Argentina is known for leather!).
I spent the afternoon wandering through the cobblestone streets of San Telmo into Recoleta, where I ended up at El Ateneo, a strong contender for the world's greatest bookstore. The theater-turned-cinema-turned-bookstore still has its original frescoed ceilings and dramatic, red curtains that cordon off the bar from the main floor where over 120,000 titles are organized. For dinner, I was told that El Cuartito, a famous pizza place down the street, was a must. It's a packed parlor with florescent lighting and sports posters covering every inch of walls, known for the Fugazetta, a thick, greasy slice with cheese and onions that is every almond mom’s nightmare, and seemed to grow back after every bite I took, but was what every table had ordered. When I left it was almost midnight and the dining room was still crowded with young families just arriving to sit down.
The first night I stayed at the Pulitzer, which was fine for an affordable option, but doesn’t have much soul and is in a weird area. My second night I checked into Jardin Escondido, a very charming 7-bedroom hotel in Palermo Soho. The aptly named hotel (Jardin Escondido means “hidden garden” in Spanish) looks like just another townhouse from the front, but once inside, reveals a beautiful and surprisingly large, multi-level garden complete with a plunge pool and several outdoor dining/lounging areas. It was the home and studio of Francis Ford Coppola when he lived in Buenos Aires to film Tetro in 2008, and it still really feels lived in—like Francis himself had just stepped out and left the straw Panama hat that was draped on a coat hook in the entrance.
When Colin, the concierge, checked me in, we chatted over a cup of coffee in the living room, a light-filled space where tables and bookshelves are piled with books on Argentine cinema and wine, clippings from the garden and, of course, a signed VHS of El Padrino (The Godfather) in the movie library. He gave me a spin around the first floor, sharing details of the honor bar and Francis’ former studio with equal enthusiasm, before showing me to my room. All seven rooms are named after family members or important historic/cultural figures (some, I guess, you could argue are both!), and I was lucky to stay in Sofia’s room. Sofia is a cozy double room on the second floor that overlooks the garden, tastefully decorated with Argentine Salta blankets and a vintage washbasin. I imagined that Sofia herself might have worked on a brilliant screenplay at the wooden desk where fresh-cut flowers and alfajores from the bakery next door welcomed me.
The hotel doesn’t have a restaurant, though they do have a nice breakfast in the morning—strong coffee and fresh pastries, eggs, fruit, etc. It's served at a communal table in the living room, though you could take it into the garden or opt to go to one of the many cafes on the block instead. Jardin Escondido is located in the heart of Palermo Soho, a very buzzy neighborhood where the streets are lined with trees, upscale boutiques, and trendy coffee shops that spill out onto sidewalks. I grabbed a coffee at the sceney Cuervo Cafe and headed down the street from the hotel to the Paul French Gallery, a home store tucked down a lush corridor with a small sitting area to sip coffee or mate. They had a great edit of items for every room of the house, from soaps to linens to lighting fixtures that made me wish I had a beach house in nearby José Ignacio to decorate. Right around the corner is Animaná, a sustainable Argentine brand that works with over 7,500 artisans in the Andes and Patagonia to create garments from natural fibers. It was founded in 2009 by Adriana Marina, who grew up in rural Argentina and wanted to preserve the local environment and craft while generating wealth for local communities—she now consults for the UN to make the fashion industry more sustainable. Their store is full of beautifully-made clothes, blankets and textiles that would make really special gifts. A few blocks away lies Facon, a one-stop shop for old photographs and woven rugs, gaucho knives and all sorts of ceramics sourced by the intrepid founder, Martin Bustamante. Martin has traversed over 40,000 miles through every corner of the country to meet artisans and choose unique pieces; the result is a store that, despite its small size, you could spend hours in, asking about stories behind each curiosity. From there it's a short walk to the Mercado de las Pulgas, a sprawling antiques market worth checking out.
Starting to work up an appetite, I decided to put my name in for a late lunch at El Preferido, which was highly recommended but impossible to get a reservation for online. They said the wait would be an hour, though it ended up being only 15 minutes and they even passed out G&Ts to everyone who waited in line. The meal and service were a highlight of my trip—and if you’re interested in learning more about small-production Argentine wines, this is a great jumping off point.
That night I headed to the Teatro Colón dressed to the nines, only to find out that the opera was more of a casual affair—groups of 20-year-old guys were hanging out in the standing section in jeans, and families brought their young kids. I loved how unpretentious it felt. And the next morning when I headed to MALBA and the (completely free) Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo, where nothing was roped off, it felt the same. Everywhere I went people lingered, took an extra beat to tell a story or joke, and be patient with my mediocre Spanish. On my last day, when I checked out of Jardin Escondido, another concierge named Nacho joked that I needed to call them once I was at the airport and had arrived at home. When my taxi turned down the block, I looked back and he was still standing there waving.
Logistics
Cash is king! Many places prefer it or simply don’t take credit cards (though upscale restaurants, hotels, etc. all took credit cards). Because of the severe inflation, the exchange rate is constantly changing, so I’d recommend bringing cash in USD or an ATM card and just going to a casa de cambio when you arrive. And some people seemed to prefer to be paid in USD, since it's a more stable currency.
Transportation is convenient and cheap. Uber is very contentious (and maybe illegal) there, so I just opted to walk or take taxis everywhere. Next time, when I go back for longer, I would get a SUBE card which you can use for buses or the subway.
Carly Shea is Yolo Journal’s associate editor.
GUEST BOOK: The Dolli, Athens, Greece
In short… The new chic place to stay in the center of Athens, with the best views of the Acropolis.
The vibe… A former department store, the Dolli was completely reconfigured in 2023 to be a 29-room hotel that feels more home (albeit fancy home) than hotel. All the furniture was custom-made by a local woodworker, and the salon in the front has chairs and stools that are meant to be moved around to suit whoever is coming together. There is no check-in “counter,” rather a beautiful vintage desk, a library area where guests can enjoy drinks or lunch alongside the owners’ personal art collection, which include pieces from Jean Cocteau and Picasso. Not old school at all—it has all the makings of a new classic—it feels very modern and new, because it is. It has a sense of humor—including an infinity pool looking onto the Acropolis with big opalescent floating balls.
The rooms… Our room was a junior Acropolis-view suite, which had a giant marble tub with an incredible view of the Acropolis. I will be forever spoiled by that bath-view, and loved that they had a candle as well as an assortment of bath salts and bombs. They also have actual light switches, and something we haven’t seen in a bathroom—an on/off push button for the shower and bath. Japanese toilets and a sensor-triggered low light for when you need it in the dark. For families, they have configurations beyond the typical two adjoining rooms—in some areas, it can be up to 5 adjoining rooms.
The food and drink… We didn’t have a chance to experience that much of it as we were there for less than 24 hours (arrived at 2pm and left at 6am), but the arrival tea sandwiches were elegant and delicious, the bartender was deeply knowledgeable (he made great martinis and a Negroni with a Greek gin that Matt was a fan of), and we had some excellent sushi for dinner. We’ll be back to try more!
THE SOUVENIR: French Travel Mirror
Several years ago, Matt bought me an Arpin travel mirror in Paris at some old school pharmacy, and I have never traveled without it since. But then our daughter needed her own, and I couldn’t find one anywhere in Paris, so I gave her mine. Last week I was strolling through the Brentwood Country Mart and stopped into Turpan, which always has the best edit of everything from Porter bags to Valextra wallets to…the Arpin hand mirror! I couldn’t believe it. Of course they would have it, because they have the best eye. But upon further research, I also found another online resource here. No, they aren’t cheap—but they are so well made, and super chic. —Y.E.
MOODBOARD
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Going to BA in a couple of months. Excited to follow these recos!
Almost went to BA last January and had a few of the same spots scoped out. Thanks for recs!