Bric-a-Brac 72
It’s all Greek to us! Three special hotels born from owners’ visions, the couple we want to plan our next Cyclades trip, and how to navigate the Acropolis and those illogical island ferry schedules
We’re still hard at work on our website replatforming, so we’re sharing some more Guest Books that we prepped for the new site, this time in Greece! Also, we got our friend who is an archaeologist and licensed guide in Athens to drill down on exactly how to time a visit to the Acropolis, plus an interview with the founders of The Cycladist, a travel agency that curates bespoke travel experiences in the Cyclades, filled with insider intel on less-touristed islands. And lastly, we answer your questions on how to deal with the flight-to-ferry quandary (that landing at noon and your ferry doesn’t leave until 8am the next day kind of thing)—and give some tips on how to lean into it and make your trip even better.
And if you’re newish to Yolo, you might not be aware of our Greece Travel Planners—The Islands and Everywhere Else, as well as our Athens Planner—which are still quite up to date and can help you figure out the best island for wind-free sandy beaches, how to charter a boat, or an itinerary for your mythology-obsessed kid. (For paid subscribers.) Happy Memorial Day (in the States)—both the unofficial start of summer and a great weekend to firm up your plans!
Guest Book: Melenos Lindos, Rhodes, Dodecanese
In short… An incredible vision of craftsmanship and a love story with the village of Lindos that birthed a very special hotel
The vibe… Owner Michalis Melenos, a local, spent 14 years working on this hotel with designer Donald Green. Seventeenth-century Lindian mansions were the inspiration, whose architecture and design were shaped by Byzantine, Medieval, Arabic and Ottoman influences. Every single square foot is shaped by incredible craft and design—from the hand-laid pebble mosaics throughout the property (all collected by hand on the island), to the cedar woodwork in every suite. Fabrics and objects were sourced locally throughout Greece, and in Turkey, Morocco, Uzbekistan and Syria.
The rooms… I’ve found that sometimes a hotel that makes a statement can forgo comfort for aesthetic vision, but this isn’t the case here. Beds are Coco-Mat (a sustainable Greek bedding company), and we slept extremely well. We had a terrace looking out onto the bay, which was heaven. And when we wanted to swim, it was just a short walk down to the water. Because the beach gets very crowded in high season, it’s lovely to have it to yourself in the morning and at the end of the day.
The food… The hotel restaurant serves food all day–very traditional and local dishes for breakfast and lunch, and dinner a bit more refined and modern-leaning, all very good. While you’re a two-minute walk to the heart of the village where there are many restaurants, it’s really nice to not have to deal with any crowds and just sit on the terrace and look out to the sea.
Be sure to… Wake up early and head to the Acropolis first thing in the morning, before the crowds and the heat. It’s just a two-minute walk from the hotel.
Guest Book: Dexamenes Seaside Hotel, Kourouta, Peloponnese
By Alex Postman
In short… A striking repurposed wine factory turned conscious resort on an unspoiled stretch of Peloponnese coastline
The surroundings… You can’t see Dexamenes on approach, as it’s hidden behind a high wall. But once you’re through the door, it’s like you’ve entered a land art site or monumental sculpture garden. The hotel structures were formerly a winery, built in the 1920s. This region of the Peloponnese was known for its small black Corinthian currants, whose production ramped up when France’s vines were stricken by phylloxera in the 1870s, becoming Greece’s biggest export. To handle the overproduction once the French vineyards recovered, the government industrialized Greek wine production with facilities like this one.
Athenian owner Nikos Karaflos and his wife, a jewelry designer (her gold pieces are in the excellent gift shop), discovered the derelict site next to a piece of land his parents had bought. They hired Athens-based K Studio to retain as much of the original brutalist structures as possible, transforming the oxidized metal silos and cement wine tanks into public spaces and guest rooms, the engine room into the restaurant, while a 1920s weighing station stands as a kind of art installation. (There’s also a small vineyard on site, with old grape varietals including Avgoustiatis and those currants.) A zero-waste approach is baked into every aspect of the design—e.g. the stone cut from the tanks was reused as pavers down to the wide beach with its brown-sugar sand and clear water, which faces west towards Zakynthos with an off-the-hook nightly sunset.
The vibe… We were there in October during the last days that the hotel was open and it was full of a cool, young Athenian crowd. There was also a yoga retreat going on, one of a few community gatherings throughout the season, including an annual film festival screened in the silo. It reflects a refreshingly modern and creative side of Greece that ancient-civ-seeking tourists don’t often get to see, down to the chic uniforms of homegrown cotton—minimalist pajamas and dresses—by sustainable Greek fashion brand Eating the Goober. In all, it’s an incredibly relaxed and arresting place that fully plays to the senses—the light and shadow sweeping across the brutalist buildings that change color all afternoon, the ocean waves tumbling over rhythmically, and the scent of lavender, rosemary, oregano and mint filling the air.
The rooms… There are 34 concrete wine tank suites that have been minimalistically updated with sliding glass doors, timber-covered porches, and textured stone walls and floors. Try to get a sea-view facing room if you can. There’s a separate building overlooking the water, the winery’s former chem lab, that has been converted to 3 bedrooms including one with bunk beds, great for families. (There’s also a little kitchen.) All mattresses, pillows and linens at the hotel are from Coco-Mat, the sustainable Greek brand.
The wellness… Yoga lessons can be booked inside the former wine tanks, which feels like being inside a Richard Serra sculpture. There’s also occasionally stargazing and sound bathing here, and private dinners with music.
The food… Athens-based Gikas Xenakis of Aleria is consulting chef, and his menus are oriented to seasonal and ancestral ingredients (with lots of gluten-free and vegan options). We had an amazing dinner that started with a carob bread spread with the freshest feta, roasted cherry tomatoes and local olive oil; marinated sea bass with watermelon, chili peppers and crispy rice; saganaki with apricot marmalade and ginger; spoon-cut roasted lamb with fava puree and grilled zucchini; and finally, walnut pudding with bitter chocolate, cinnamon cream and vanilla ice cream. So, so good. And breakfast every day was amazing—buffet and a la carte, with housemade yogurt and spoon sweets.
Be sure to… Come with a car (I’m not sure how you would get here otherwise, tbh—we drove nearly 4 hours from Athens’ port of Piraeus to the west coast of the Peloponnese, along a smooth new coastal highway). I definitely recommend visiting the ancient site of Olympia and hiring a guide to take you around to bring the spirit of the competitions to life, especially given that most of the buildings are now rubble. (We loved Niki Vlachou – +30 697 242 6085.) And the 125-year-old Mercouri Estate winery is nearby and open for tastings by appointment.
Parting words… I spent way more than I care to admit in the gift shop, which is filled with Greek-designed clothing (including versions of that staff uniform!), the aforementioned jewelry and tea/spices/honey/oil.
Date of stay… October 2023
Alex Postman is Yolo Journal’s deputy editor
Guest Book: Eros Keros, Koufonisia, Cyclades
In short… Less of a hotel and more like my Greek home away from home, where I can reconnect with nature, walk along a quiet path to my morning swims (saying hello to the horse who always runs to greet me), and immerse myself in the soul of the Aegean.
The backstory… It was born of a dream. Anita, the owner (and a dear friend), traveled here when she was young and was captivated by it, secretly placing it in her heart as "her" island. Some 20 years later, when she outgrew her career and found herself in a position to buy land here, she devoted herself to building Eros Keros, pouring her love of the island into every detail, down to the yellow skylight windows inspired by Greek cathedrals. But beyond that, Anita knows nearly everyone on the island and can make magic happen.
The vibe… Private, lush, and like time has changed its beat just enough to ease you into something new, without being disorienting. Eros Keros comprises four individual Cycladic-style houses, each perched in direct view of the Aegean, nestled in olive and fig trees and gardens of wild thyme and oregano. The locals say that with each day in Koufonisia, you will do less. It is true. This is a good place to do less—and notice more.
The rooms… Each house is thoughtfully and luxuriously conceived, with ceramics and art collected from favorite artisans and friends, spacious master bedrooms, a generous living space, full kitchen, marble bathrooms, a pergola and magical views. Each has its own charm. Returning guests often try them all, then reserve the one they love the most for the next year (usually before departing).
The food & drink… Anita’s love language is food. All meals are homemade, with beautiful Cycladic-sourced ingredients and from recipes handed down from Greek moms and grandmothers. For example at breakfast, you might have yogurt from the shepherd on the neighboring island of Naxos, brown bread ferried over that morning from the island of Amorgos, and wild thyme honey from Anita’s mountain house. A favorite dinner entree of mine, Briam, a traditional Greek dish of slow-roasted vegetables that have been stewed for hours if not the whole day, is served here in beautifully decorated handmade clay pots. For dessert, try the chocolate trunk.
The wellness… Imagine the sound of Greek birds singing, distant sea rhythms, a soft breeze, and a hint of jasmine while having a massage or perhaps yoga on your private terrace.
Be sure to… Visit, or at least gaze upon, the island of Keros, opposite Koufonisi. Keros is noted for the flat-faced Cycladic marble statues discovered there that inspired the work of Picasso and Henry Moore. In modern times, its only inhabitants are goats, who feed exclusively on the salty grasses and sea water of the island, which makes them super tasty. Only locals are allowed to bring cars on the island, and there is literally just one land-based taxi. I love the free feeling of shuffling around without precision by boat taxi.
Parting words… The water in Koufonisi is some of my favorite on the planet—bluer and saltier, with secrets if you are open to listening for them. Say hello from me.
Patricia Garcia-Gomez is a water practitioner and sensory immersion artist who created RewildRestore, an ocean-centric retreat experience. She also founded Greater Narrative, which crafts narratives for some of the world’s most beloved thinkers.
THE NAVIGATOR
Petros Stamatopoulos and Maira Tagalaki, co-founders, The Cycladist
Tell us about you and your company.
We are Petros and Maira and we're the founders of The Cycladist, a travel agency that specializes in curating bespoke travel experiences in Greece, with a particular focus on the cluster of islands known as the Cyclades. Through our intimate knowledge of each island, paired with our personal passion for them, we manage every aspect of a dream island holiday—from selecting the right accommodation in the right location to customizing experiences across food, culture and adventure.
Traveling the globe is our shared passion. Having spent our childhood summers in the Cyclades, we have always wanted to share the magic of its simple easy bliss with others: providing an inside track to Greece as we know and love it, while sharing and celebrating its rich traditions and culture. We’ve been the go-to people for personalized travel tips and recommendations for friends and family for decades, and we decided to put our expertise into practice by creating The Cycladist. Our aim is to provide people like us—discerning travelers—with luxuriously tasteful, effortless stays and memories that span a lifetime.
What’s the entry level to talk to you?
Typically, for a trip that covers an entire group for an entire stay, our minimum budget is 10,000 EUR. There are no additional fees on top of this for planning your vacation with us.
What is the sweet spot of your expertise?
Petros: We have a globally-local and holistic approach to planning really special stays. As avid global travelers, having also lived in London and New York, we speak the same language as our clients when it comes to travel. This means that we know what’s wanted, needed and required to make a stay effortless and exceptional. As locals, everything we recommend is personally vetted. And our approach is holistic because we take a hyper-personal approach to planning trips, with a level of detail and thought that goes far beyond booking accommodation.
A favorite experience/trip/itinerary you’ve planned that best represents your philosophy…
Petros: It has to be on the charming island of Sifnos, and a perfect day goes something like this…. Late in the morning, from Platis Yalos beach, we board our private motorboat, captained by Giannis (a seasoned islander who knows Sifnos’s neighboring coves since boyhood) for a voyage to the stunning uninhabited island of Polyaigos. Here, in what is arguably the most pristine waters in all of the Aegean, we swim, snorkel, or paddle out on a SUP for a bit of exercise. For lunch, we head to one of my favorite fish taverns called Prasonisi. It’s right next to Prasa beach in Kimolos and has both the freshest seafood and unbeatable views, with turquoise waters just beneath you and the island of Polyaigos in the background. Top this experience off with some local tsipouro (Greek grappa) and you have the perfect meal! To finish off an exceptional day, once we return to Platis Yialos’ marina, we head for sunset at the Castro (which means castle in Greek), Sifnos’ oldest seafront settlement. Our go-to place is Loggia wine bar, where we savor fresh oysters paired with a refreshing crisp glass of Assyrtiko, whilst enjoying the last moments of light before the sun dips into the sea…
A few favorite stays that you love and go back to again and again…
Petros: An all-time favorite hotel is Yria Island Boutique Hotel & Spa in Paros. The hotel is built in traditional Cycladic architectural style and is the epitome of simple, quiet, Cycladic luxury.
The Villa Kalo Ampeli in Serifos, nestled at the top of Kalo Ampeli bay, and Villa Aeolos in Tinos’ Agios Romanos, are two of our favorite houses (available to rent by contacting us). Both feature impeccable design using local materials and craftsmanship, and boast incredible views that stretch as far as the eye can see.
The most memorable meal you’ve had while traveling…
Maira: We recently toured the Cyclades, checking out our all-time favorite spots and discovering new gems. Without a doubt, Mario restaurant in Paros served the most unforgettable meal! The fresh grouper ceviche with chili, lime and celery mayonnaise was an absolute standout, as was the fresh grouper carpaccio with lemon, olive oil, fleur de sel and sea urchin, with a glass of Greek Malagouzia wine. The intense aromas of citrus blossom and stone fruits in the wine paired perfectly with the light, fresh taste of the fish. We also loved the marinated courgette salad with avocado, local Naxian cheese, and citrus fruit dressing. Hunting for the best eateries and unique flavors has been a passion of ours for ages and is one of the best parts of this job.
A not-to-be-missed favorite experience in your region of expertise…
Maira: One experience that stands out is the olive oil tasting I had at Agrilia Estate in Antiparos. It began with a guided tour through their olive grove, where you learn all about the rich history and meticulous cultivation methods of these ancient trees, as well as the profound importance of olive oil throughout Greek history. Then we got an insider's look at the milling process and discovered how cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil is crafted to perfection. The highlight was the tasting session where one learns to smell, taste and savor the incredible aromas and flavors of EVOO. My favorite part was getting expert tips on classifying different oils and pairing them with the right foods to elevate any dish.
Underrated location, overrated location, personal favorite, recent discovery?
Maira: Underrated location: Tinos is truly a hidden gem, with over 50 villages each competing to be the most charming. In Pyrgos, renowned for its marble craftsmen, you'll find doorways adorned with sculpted birds and flowers. Volax, on the other hand, feels like a scene from a myth, with basket weavers working outside cottages surrounded by massive boulders that look like they were hurled by Zeus himself. My absolute favorite is Kardiani village, with its breathtaking sunset views and picturesque, stone-paved narrow alleys.
Overrated location: Milos has gained a lot of attention on social media lately. While it does offer incredible natural beauty along its unique coastline, I feel it lacks the elegance, upscale accommodations, and diverse culinary options found on other islands.
Personal favorite: If I had to recommend one must-visit spot, it would be Pori Beach in Koufonisia. This sandy beach has fine, light sand and a half-moon shape that protects it from the Meltemi winds. The shallow, clear blue water is perfect for swimming. Don't miss a great lunch at Kallofego, and you might even spot a kitesurfer or two!
Recent discovery: The mystic island of Keros and its neighbor, Antikeri, which you can only visit by boat from Naxos or Koufonisia, have recently captivated me. Keros, resembling a female Cycladic statuette, is a protected archaeological site with rugged landscapes and dramatic cliffs, making it perfect for an unforgettable day trip.
What is something you wished we all knew or were better at as travelers?
Maira: I wish we all could be more mindful of sustainability, ensuring we preserve the natural beauty of the sea and land we are lucky enough to explore. Traveling during off-peak seasons, such as avoiding August, helps reduce overcrowding and alleviates pressure on local infrastructure. Practicing water conservation by taking shorter showers, reusing towels and linens, and turning off taps when not in use is crucial, especially in the Cyclades, where fresh water is scarce.
How do you want people to reach out to you? hello@thecycladist.com, @thecycladist, +44 7516130459 (Whatsapp), TheCycladist.com.
YOU ASKED FOR IT: “What’s the easiest way to get to Patmos?” …and… “Is there an easy way to research and book ferries in Greece? There are so many different lines.”
The Dodecanese island of Patmos is one of our favorites, and we go back nearly every summer. Part of what makes it so special and protected is that it’s so hard to get to. The closest island with an airport is Leros, but there are no frequent flights to it. Kos and Rhodes have regular flights from Athens and major European cities, but the times rarely align with the ferries, which means your options are sitting around for hours, booking a private boat (only from Kos, though—Rhodes is too far), or spending the night. Not to mention that half the time there's a flight delay or cancellation because of wind or who knows what. Literally every summer I get calls and texts from friends or their friends asking me—isn't there an easier way to get to Patmos?!
I wouldn't say there's an easier way, but there's a less painful way. My theory is, lean into the journey—and make it a part of your trip. We usually fly into Rhodes, spend a night at Kokkini Porta Rossa in the old town, and take the ferry the next morning. The old town is so lovely, as is the hotel (and its owners), and it’s a walk (or short taxi) to the ferry. Or you can overnight in Lindos (a 45 min drive from the airport and the port), stay at the Melenos Lindos, and visit the incredible acropolis. The last time we went we flew nonstop from Naples to Kos, and rather than wait 7 hours for a ferry, we booked a private boat. On a flat sea, the trip can be as short as 1:15, but it took about an hour longer as it was very windy. It wasn’t cheap—600 euros—and I wouldn’t say it was comfortable (it was a RIB, although you can book a more luxe motorboat that has drinks and snacks for triple the price). If big waves and bumpy rides make you anxious, just wait for the ferry. (We booked with Leros Cruises: leroscruises@gmail.com). If you manage to get a flight into Leros, you can take a ferry or book a private charter to get over to Patmos (normally 45 minutes). Another option that has great boats and is very full-service is Cyanos Yachting. We used them to go from Athens to Koufonisia, and they were excellent. There’s a new private airline company called Fly Cycladic, which for the moment is just for charters. If you’re traveling with a larger group they are worth looking into, since the plane is a 12-seater. I know their goal was to connect the Cyclades and Dodecanese by plane (which doesn’t exist—you have to go through Athens), and that they eventually want to open their business to individual bookings, not just charters—so stay tuned for that.
As for booking ferry tickets (there are so many lines and schedules change all the time), all our sources agree that Ferry Hopper is the best for online access to schedules and tickets. Advance bookings are definitely recommended, even without a car, as weekends and early August tend to sell out on the fast ferries. You can also add multiple destinations for island-hopping. For spontaneous travel, you can almost always find a spot on some of the larger ferries, but they are slower (compared to hydrofoil ferry options) and comfort is not always guaranteed with deck seating.
Once when she had a complicated itinerary involving 6 people and 4 islands, our deputy editor Alex used Magna Travel, an agency that can arrange your ferry and flight tickets, as well as private care hires. There is no minimum spend and they are super communicative and easy to work with. Highly recommend! —Y.E.
TACTICS: Planning Your Acropolis Visit
Anyone in the last few years who has seen photographs of the Acropolis, with crowds tightly packed between narrow marble colonnades, can tell that the situation has grown burdensome. Since it does not seem to be changing as we approach another high season, I have a few tips to ease your visit to the crown jewel of Athens.
The ticket situation: As with any popular sight, the Acropolis has been the target of a plethora of unofficial websites that sell so-called “priority-access” tickets to the unaware, after charging a (sometimes significant) mark-up. Of course, the less SEO-savvy governmental website stays forever buried in Google search. Here is the only official website for buying Acropolis tickets.
The reality is that the Acropolis does not offer priority entry: there’s just one type of ticket, whether you buy it online or at the physical booth, through the official website or a third-party one. Although buying your ticket online lets you skip the physical ticket booth, there’s typically a line at the entrance, and no ticket will let you jump that line.
Notes on buying the ticket online:
Tickets are sold for specific dates and time slots—if you miss your entry, it will not be honored and getting a refund is not an option.
Buying your ticket at least a week in advance is advisable for the busiest of days/slots. For the least busy slots (late afternoon-evening), you can usually buy a ticket at the last minute.
If you purchase discounted tickets for young ones under 25, make sure to bring some form of ID for them – a picture of their passport on your phone suffices. Do not be surprised if the staff request it even for a visibly young teenager.
There is a combined ticket that includes the Acropolis with other archeological sites (e.g., the legendary Ancient Agora), but there are no combined tickets that include the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum. A website selling you this combination is doing nothing more than artificially combining the two tickets for a mark-up. This is the only official website for the Acropolis Museum tickets.
Opening hours nuance: A lot of websites (and even Google Maps) report the Acropolis opening hours as follows:
Summer schedule (1st April to 30th October): from 08.00 am to 08.00 pm.
Winter schedule (1st November to 31st March): 08.00 am to 05.00 pm.
While the winter schedule is correct, the summer one is more nuanced, resulting in trouble for travelers. From April 1st to August 31st, the Acropolis indeed opens at 08.00 am and closes at 08.00 pm. But starting September 1st, in order to chase the setting sun, the Acropolis also closes earlier: at 7:30 from September 1-15, at 7:00 from September 16-31, 6:30 from October 1-15, and 6:00 from October 16-31. Note that entry to most archaeological sites and museums is allowed up until 30 minutes before closing time.
The best time to visit: Acropolis crowds are usually the result of the large cruise ships that dock at the port of Athens early in the morning, pouring out thousands of people simultaneously. So as you plan your visit, the only question that matters is: “How many cruise ships will there be docked on the day of my visit?” From April to November, assume that the answer is a lot. Therefore, the best time to visit the Acropolis is in the later afternoon, as the majority of the cruise ships usually have to depart after 5:00 pm.
In fact, I would recommend visiting the Acropolis as late as its closing time affords, arriving 1 to 1.5 hours before that, allowing both sufficient time to enjoy the sight and the opportunity to descend with the sunset (for a guided tour, give yourself 2 solid hours). Do not hesitate to push your dinner to “Greek time” (i.e., after 8:30 pm) – it will be worth your while.
Of course, it’s not impossible to make a morning visit work – and in the shoulder months of the summer season, early mornings on the sacred rock can be stunning. But the only way to do so comfortably is if you enter the site around opening hour at 8:00 am, which means that you will have to be posted by the entrance at least by 7:35-40 am. This is because as the number of online ticket buyers has increased, so has the unskippable line that begins to form outside the gates very early. The earlier you arrive, the closer to the front of that line you will be. There have been days that arriving just a bit after the site’s opening at 8:15 am with a ticket in hand would still get you 45 minutes (or more) of queueing to enter.
It is not enough to enter early, you have to depart at a sensible hour, too: most of the pictures of the crowded Acropolis are of the thousands of people that get stuck at the bottleneck of the Propylaea (a narrow path leading through the ancient gateways of the Acropolis). I would say leaving before 10:00 am should get you comfortable passage through the bottleneck.
Relatedly, people ask me of the two Acropolis entrances, which one is better? The truth is they are both now hit or miss. The cruise ship buses arrive at the main one. But the lower entrance, which had become something of a common secret for individual travelers, can sometimes be worse, since the secret is out. So the most important thing is to time your arrival strategically, whichever entrance you use.
Michael Patmanidis is an archaeologist and licensed guide based in Athens, Greece.
This is so timely, thank you!
My 23 year old daughter and I are heading to Paros, Sifnos and Milos in June.
Love, love, love the recommendations for dinner and the olive oil tasting.
Also, we were lucky enough to get a tour date of the Acropolis with Michael.
We honeymooned on Sifnos and couldn’t agree more about what a fantastic island it is - full of great food, history, beaches, and lovely people. Also agree on Milos - it feels like an Instagram trap and the hospitality doesn’t feel up to par with some of the other islands. Beautiful beaches and great boat trips departing from there though.