Bric-a-Brac 74
Designers on vacation! Dispatches from Tunis, Egypt and Hydra by the creative directors of La DoubleJ, Métier and By Malene Birger
A couple of weeks ago, Instagram told me that our friend J.J. Martin was in Tunis—a place I’ve always wanted to go. It looked incredible, and I was so excited to see her there that I immediately texted Alex (our deputy editor who actually worked with J.J. on her book, Mamma Milano), asking her to reach out and see if she could write about it for us. At the same time, our friend Melissa Morris (the founder of Métier, who makes my favorite crossbody bag) went on a trip to Egypt, where she got to experience the Set Nefru, a newly restored traditional dahabiya boat, which I’m dying to go on. Lastly, Maja Dixdotter, the Swedish creative director of By Malene Birger, shares how she packs for Hydra, along with some great lessons on high-low/wrinkly-crisp combinations. —Yolanda
JUST BACK FROM…Tunis
My most recent trip to Tunisia was born on my living room couch in Milan during the Salone del Mobile, when my friend Nicolas Bellavance Lecompte arrived at the very end of a dinner party with a wonderful Tunisian-born woman named Lamia Bousnina.
Nicolas, an architect and co-founder of Nomad design fair, told me that he was curating an exhibit in Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, to launch Lamia’s brand-new eponymous gallery for collectible design and contemporary art the following month. Both of them graciously invited me to attend.
Prior to this conversation, I had never even considered visiting and knew next to nothing about it except that Azzedine Alaia was born there (and, as fate would have it, the recently deceased fashion designer’s former home was just down the street from my hotel, Villa Bleue, a tiny, charming tile-covered cozy thing in Sidi Bou Said). The last time I’d even thought of the region was during my demanding Ancient History class in 7th grade, when we learned about the seafaring Phoenicians and the tragic fall of Carthage to the savage Romans. I was fascinated to discover eye-popping remnants of that exact Before-Christ life inside the must-see Bardo Museum in Tunis, which houses the largest collection of ancient Roman mosaics in the world. It is sensational; a must-see if you visit Tunisia.
Though Lamia’s two galleries (the other is called Musk and Amber) and several hotels (like the beautiful Dar Al Jald and Palais Bayram) were super sophisticated, Tunis—the giant capital city of the country—is not slick or manicured. Much of it swirls in a kind of dusty sprawl and chaos that reminded me of Egypt in its mood—and, funny enough, my home town of Los Angeles (just for the distances needed to travel by car between locations like Sidi Bou Said, where I stayed/loved and the city center).
But its tiny-shop-and-cafe-crammed maze-y medina is intoxicatingly delicious, its youthful population bright-eyed and spicy, its sometimes-crumbling buildings richly covered in color and its energetic quotient buzzy and buoyant. Above all, it feels deeply true and authentic to itself. These are the kinds of cultures and cities I am most interested in visiting now.
If you go, you’ll want some guidance. We were so lucky to have this trip organized by Lamia, who hosted us at her home and sent us to treasured time-capsule sites like the Carthage and Bardo museums, the Carthage city ruins, Punic Port and Antonius Baths. She also recommended the following spots: Au Bon Vieux Temps, Sidi Bou Said, Dar Said, Dar Alaia, Dar El Jeld, The Residence, The Reine Didon Cathedral, and Chez Slah.
She also sent all of us home with packages of local harissa paste and freshly canned tuna (P.S., you can get the legit canned harissa at the supermarket for less than a euro). Organize yourself with an adept local driver (one friend on the trip told me they hired a taxi to stay with them all day at a very affordable rate). And this can be especially helpful at the airport, where they can escort you through the chaos.
Be sure to try the fried egg brik, a local specialty. I loved ours at the beachfront Neptune restaurant. If you need some healthy food, go to the charming Cafe Bleue in sidi Bou Said (amazing salads, hibiscus teas and gluten-free baked goods). In the Medina, Lamia hosted a great lunch at Foundouk El Attarine. And as a bodywork junkie, I’m happy to report the best news: great hammams are popping out of every hotel basement, and even a tiny one like in my hotel will deliver. Go fully naked and just surrender to the exposure. You’ll be scrubbed forcefully and hosed down, then massaged with a no-nonsense toughness that will remind you why foreign cultures are always worth tracking down. Enjoy!
J.J. Martin is the founder and creative commander of La DoubleJ, her joyful fashion and homeware line, based in Milan. She recently published her first book, Mamma Milano, about life lessons learned in her adopted city.
HOW I PACK…for Hydra
Maja Dixdotter, the Swedish-born creative director of Danish womenswear label By Malene Birger, has a knack for blending Scandinavian minimalism with bohemian cool. When we learned that her love for the island of Hydra inspired their summer collection, we asked her to fill us in on how she navigates the island’s cobblestone streets in her signature style.
What’s your go-to luggage for this kind of trip, and why?
My all-time-go-to luggage when traveling is our large nylon bag, the Nabelle Tote Bag. It’s not huge, but it fits what you need for a few days on Hydra: ERES swimwear, a breezy dress in Thai silk, a sunhat, some crisp cotton poplin, lots of jewelry, a good book, a small raffia bag, a pair of flip-flops and a chic pair of sandals. It is easy to jump on and off boats with and it can withstand being put down on the cobblestone or carried by a donkey (Hydra does not have any cars, hence you transport yourself with either water taxis, donkeys or by foot). If I’m staying somewhat longer and need to bring more, I pack in my old classic Rimowa, which I will treasure forever.
How do you approach the basics?
I actually always plan looks for what to wear but then never really go for. My gut feeling always tends to kick in and that varies depending on the weather, my mood, and the vibe of where I am. However, we design a lot of sets at By Malene Birger and these I find very easy to use, especially when traveling. I wore a white crinkled linen set a lot when I was on Hydra for our Spring-Summer 2024 campaign shoot, and we have a striped cotton organic set that Malgosia Bela wears in the campaign, which is really nice. And no matter how hot it is, I love a good pajama! Preferably from Schostal.
Are you a roller or a folder?
A folder if I have time. A tosser if I’m in a hurry :)
Any other packing tricks or hacks?
Bring a portable steamer for your white crispy cotton shirt and a lot of jewelry. Jewelry can make the very same outfit new, and here I go for vintage or inherited jewelry only! It’s like wearing fond memories. A scarf is a good trick, too, for changing a look and is also super easy to pack!
What’s your shoe strategy?
Hydra is really not very heel-friendly, but I still want a somewhat more festive sandal in addition to my everyday Havaianas or Birkenstocks. We have a very cute one with a heart, in the finest Napa leather crafted in Italy – this one I would definitely bring. If I’m dressed up, I like to wear a somewhat more casual shoe – I love the juxtaposition of things; a super luxurious skirt and blouse with a pair of Havaianas or a more casual look like that crinkled linen set that breathes ease but then adding a sexy kitten heel.
How do you think about accessories?
Always bring a brooch! They’re good for adding that little extra “old-lady-shimmer” to your outfit and are very practical if something breaks. A little pouch is also good for evenings out when you do not need to bring more than your credit card, phone, key and a red lipstick – Little Liffner has beautiful designs, minimal but still expressive. As for lipstick: Westman Atelier suede matte in color PIP.
Do you have a great travel hat?
Lots! Newest addition is a striped straw hat made out of 100% paper. It really adds that bohemian touch to a look that By Malene Birger is about. I also like to buy a good hat once at the destination; could be a big round straw hat or a classic tourist cap – depending on my mood. These hats also become nice memories to bring home.
What’s always in your Dopp kit/toiletry bag?
Perfume, always! When traveling, I also love to find new perfumes, preferably local ones. On Hydra I found a lovely Fig perfume made by the very chic Pharmacy Rafalias, which dates back as long as to the 1890. Vangelis, the owner of the pharmacy, makes the perfumes himself out of local ingredients and scents found on the island. The packaging is also beautiful!
What’s your pharmacy kit? How do you deal with sunscreen if you’re a carryon only?
Biotherm Sunscreen is an essential part of my toiletry bag but if I’m with only a carryon, local
pharmacies are often very beautiful and always worth a visit – hence, make sunscreen your first buy when you get off the boat.
On a plane, what essentials does your carry-on bag always contain?
Bose headphones and iPad for sketching! I’ve sketched some of my best designs during a flight.
Any wisdom on traveling with electronics?
Don’t bring your computer – enjoy your vacation!
Do you have a travel uniform?
This fall we are actually launching an athleisure/travel capsule, which includes the perfect comfy pieces for traveling (or heading to the gym). There’s a pair of lightweight tights with our house monogram that I in particular will make into a staple in my travel uniform. Besides this, I always make sure to bring a pair of ribbed cotton socks—preferably also from Schostal—and the shoes, often trainers from Asics or New Balance, need to easily come off when it gets too hot on the plane!
DISPATCH FROM…The Nile
My love for exploring new places no doubt comes from the way I was raised. Every summer, my family and I would go someplace new—never the same place twice—and I fell in love with experiencing new cultures, new sounds, new tastes, new sights.
And so it is probably not a surprise that, years later, I founded a travel-inspired luxury leather goods house called Métier. After so many years of traveling the world, I wanted to design perfectly-crafted bags that were beautiful to behold while also removing the pain points of travel through organization and ease. Funnily enough, while I created my brand to make travel easier, my life as an entrepreneur has only increased my frequency of travel. While many trips these days are for business, I make sure I also infuse my travels with visits to new places to inspire and unwind.
For so long now, Egypt has been at the top of my list—I’ve always been fascinated by its rich history and mythical stories. And so when a good friend of mine who’s been spending a lot of time there said she would love to help me plan a special trip for my birthday, I jumped at the chance. The journey would include the opportunity to travel the Nile aboard one of the inaugural voyages of the Set Nefru, a traditional dahabiya that has been meticulously restored by Al Moudira, the storied Luxor hospitality brand.
I assembled a group of friends from London and New York to join me on the adventure. I love bringing friends together who don’t know each other—it’s one of my favorite parts of creating a dinner party guest list, matchmaking and introducing great people to each other. Luckily my friends seem to trust me with this task, and so when I reached out to Erik, Sam, Zöe, Martha, Silka, Max and Morgan, everyone said yes and flights were booked.
We started by staying three nights in Luxor, at Al Moudira’s new private villas. Al Moudira is such a special place—so authentic and with so much intention infused into every detail by its legendary founder, Zeina Aboukheir, who sources all the Egyptian vintage and one-of-a-kind pieces herself. Additionally the level of service and care is truly unique; everyone we met who works there took such pride in their connection with the property. We stayed in Villa Zeina—which had been Zeina’s home here; it was magical—a complete oasis and the perfect way to arrive.
On our first evening, we took a sunset river cruise down the Nile and stopped at the iconic Winter Palace before visiting the temple at Karnak in the evening. It was dark outside by this point, and the white sandstone figures juxtaposed with the night sky were breathtaking. (I’ll have to come back to throw a party at the really cool vintage Egyptian discotheque, called Sheherazade, sort of a Hotel Byblos meets Studio 54 meets Egypt vibe!)
The next day we were meant to take a sunrise hot air balloon ride, but unfortunately the wind wasn’t cooperating. Hopefully next time! Instead, we were whisked over to the Valley of the Kings and Queens. I was fascinated with the ancient Egyptians' preoccupation with the afterlife; it was mind-boggling to consider how much they built and preserved so long ago. We then visited a local ceramics artisan before a special dinner prepared for us at the villa.
The next day, we packed our bags and boarded the Set Nefru—a 5-cabin traditional wooden boat that was built in the 1940s for a member of the Egyptian Royal Family and relaunched last year after a sensitive restoration by the Al Moudira team with the most understated but elegant materials—and set sail down the Nile. Our first stop was Edfu, the largest temple dedicated to Horus, and then we visited Silsileh, where we walked through the sandstone quarries thought to be the source of stone for many of Egypt’s temples.
Days on the boat were pure magic—gliding along the river, the riverbanks looked surreal, like a painting. We had so much fun lying on the striped daybeds listening to music, playing backgammon, reading, sketching…. The staff was incredible; it was so relaxing and spoiling. Although it was hot, I didn’t feel compelled to jump in the water with the others until the captain dared me to, then I plunged straight into the Nile from the boat. (Set Nefru can be chartered for 3-7 days; each trip is bespoke.)
After two blissful nights on the boat, we flew to Cairo and stayed in private Art Deco apartments that are part of a hospitality project launching in September by the same group as Al Moudira, with the most incredible views of downtown Cairo. We dropped our bags, settled in with a glass of champagne to watch the sunset, and then headed off to dinner.
The next day, we visited local artisans. I fell in love with MADU, which was founded by Margarita Andrade, who also founded Malaika linens and Threads of Hope. MADU is an incredibly tasteful selection of all things artisanal—ceramics from Fayoum, softest Egyptian cotton bedsheets from Malaika and hand-embroidered by Threads of Hope, handwoven patterned blankets; a treasure in the Zamalek area. Then we visited Tintera Art Gallery, a contemporary photography gallery working with artists who have a connection to Egypt, as well as Alef Gallery, which showcases Egyptian antiques and craft in the most amazing room of block-printed fabrics sold by the meter.
For me, the most magical part of the day was visiting the Ibn Tulun mosque. They cover visitors’ feet with great care, then you step inside this yawning, empty space and courtyard. I cannot describe the feeling of being in the busiest city one moment, then stepping into an expansive oasis that is so quiet and tranquil the next.
That evening, there was a birthday party for me on the roof terrace of our apartment, which was such a fun way to spend our last night. The owner recruited Avec Karim, an up-and-coming young Egyptian chef who trained under Alain Ducasse before returning to Egypt, who is all about sourcing and highlighting Egypt's produce and presenting its culinary heritage in a contemporary way.
For our last day, my birthday, we all woke up early (with slightly sore heads from the night before) and visited the Pyramids. We had the most incredible and captivating guide. We visited Saqqara first and then Giza, and had lunch at Khufu’s of delicious contemporary Egyptian cuisine with the best view of the Giza pyramids beyond. I would be remiss not to mention the camel ride, which I tried to avoid with all my might, but was birthday-bullied into it, so I can now check that off my bucket list.
I left feeling so inspired and amazed by what the Al Moudira team planned, and the way in which the Egyptian people were so friendly, so proud of their culture, and so happy to share it with us.
Melissa Morris is the American-born founder and creative director of leather goods brand Métier, whose flagship boutique is on London’s South Audley Street.
Great issue!
love the black and white photographs, they really transport you in a different way.