Bric-a-Brac 12
A secret hideaway in L.A., a dish to copy from Melfi's in Charleston, and the woman who knows exactly which spa you should go to.
Dear Readers,
Thank you for being here and welcome to all new signups! Some of you are paying subscribers and some of you are receiving free posts, which include these (usually) weekly Bric-a-Bracs. I hope you’ll consider becoming a full-on paid subscriber to Yolo Intel, as you’ll be able to receive our Black Books and Travel Hotlines (our Q&A on packing with Ann Mashburn is on Thursday, Nov 18, from 1-3pm EST!) that we produce each week. But the best part of fully subscribing is that you can access all of this info in our archives, any time you’re looking for travel ideas. To become a monthly paid subscriber, click this little blue button.
JUST BACK FROM…L.A.
For years, whenever we were in Los Angeles, we only ever stayed at the Sunset Tower. Matt had done a lot of photography for the property in exchange for credit, so that was the natural choice and it became a home away from home. Sadly, we finally used up the last of our credit, and now, as regular civilians again, we have to figure out where to stay that works within our needs for each trip (location/budget). On our most recent trip, we stayed in West Hollywood at Hotel 850 SVB, which is owned by Jeff Klein (who also owns the Sunset Tower). It was our second time staying here since it opened in 2018, and we loved it instantly: the location is super central, the decor by Rita Konig is lovely and doesn’t feel like you’ve seen it on repeat in every mid-range boutique hotel, and the price is right (from $295 upward). It doesn’t have all the service bells and whistles—no bar or restaurant on property—but you can order room service from Jeff Klein’s private club, San Vicente Bungalows, just across the street. There’s a living room/kitchen area with really good pastries and coffee in the morning, which is a good place to have a meeting. The rooftop area with rattan furniture and sunset views is likewise great for meetings. And if you happen to have a friend in town who’s a member of the club, you’re really happy you’re staying here.
COPY THAT!
This past Sunday night we were in Charleston and ate at Melfi’s for the first time. One of three restaurants owned by the brilliant Brooks Reitz (whose Substack I love), this is probably the most elegant/fancy, but you would also feel just fine here in a pair of jeans. We had a fantastic Caesar (I’ll get that recipe out of him soon!), but the dish to copy is the Fiorentina, which is essentially a grilled Porterhouse steak. Instead of the American steakhouse standard sides like mashed potatoes and spinach, which are often too buttery and creamy, Melfi’s serves up a great array of roasted vegetables: onions, half-heads of garlic with delicious sweet carrots and broccoli rabe cooked to perfection and coated with chili flakes and good olive oil. In no way did we miss the potatoes!
THE NAVIGATOR
Frances Geoghegan, Founder & Managing Director, Healing Holidays
Tell us about you and your company...
I have worked in the travel industry in various sectors and roles for over 30 years. At the beginning of the 2000s, I was selling bespoke luxury holidays globally and was noticing an increased demand for a spa or wellness element within such trips from my clients. Having lived through a personal bereavement and also having my own health issues, I was driven to seek out the best international medical practitioners and finest alternative wellness experts. The result was Healing Holidays. Today we are seen as Europe’s leading spa and wellness specialist, offering a range of medical clinics, retreats & spas from around the world, some of which, such as Vivamayr, Lanserhof Tegernsee, Vana & Preidlhof, are only available to book exclusively through ourselves.
What’s the entry level to talk to you?
There is no entry-level spend. We do not charge a planning fee or consultation levy, but because we work with the very best spas across the globe, who offer the latest high-tech techniques, in-depth diagnostics and on another level of healing, this invariably comes with a hefty price tag. That’s the reality of it.
What would you say is the sweet spot of your expertise, the thing that sets you apart?
Our expertise, honesty and impartiality. We try to have an in-depth conversation or consultation with every single person who inquires with Healing Holidays to discover exactly what it is that they are trying to achieve on their journey—it is only by doing this that we are able to make our suggestions and recommendations.
If we do not believe that a particular program is the right one for the client, or that a specific doctor will not be in residence at the planned time of their visit, we will be honest with them, rather than just taking the booking. We only ever recommend a property or program that one of our team has personally experienced and we do not charge any of our partner properties to be featured on our website or within our portfolio. This allows our clients to be reassured that what we are recommending is 100% right for them, not for us.
A favorite experience/trip you’ve planned that best represents you and your philosophy…
Everything we arrange for our clients is based on our initial consultation and is therefore often bespoke. We help all those who need it, and this might be through a month-long panchakarma in India, a Mayr cure in Austria, a Pilates masterclass in Thailand, or an immune booster program in Spain.
How have wellness travel trends changed as a result of the pandemic?
Lockdowns have been really hard for a lot of us, and our health—both mentally and physically—has suffered greatly. As a result, we are seeing a greater instance of clients who are wanting to be proactive in their self-care regimens, rather than be reactive on a doctor’s orders. A number of our spa partners, such as SHA Wellness Clinic & Lanserhof LANS, are also now offering specialized programs for those unfortunate enough to be suffering from Long Covid.
Favorite city spa?
I have always had a special affinity with Thailand, and when in Bangkok I always stay at the fabulous Mandarin Oriental. Their Oriental Spa is located in a restored teakwood house set across the river from the hotel, and one of my greatest pleasures is taking in the views of the Chao Phraya River before I enjoy a sumptuous four-handed Oriental Harmony massage.
Favorite hotel/destination spa you love and go back to again and again…?
It has to be Vana, located in the Himalayan foothills of India. They offer a unique combination of Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine and Tibetan Healing, and the setting, service, philosophy, treatments, and care shown to every guest are, I believe, unrivaled anywhere in the spa world. Like many of our clients, I have returned to Vana time after time, and can only agree with them when they say that their time there was life-changing. It is an extraordinary place.
What's the most memorable (healthy) meal you’ve had while traveling?
I was lucky to have recently stayed at one of Europe’s newest and most spectacular destination spas, Palazzo Fiuggi. The quiet, unassuming but genius Heinz Beck (he has three Michelin-stars) is the brains behind the cuisine here, and he has created over 1,600 recipes for guests. The flavors are strong and intense and there is a noticeable absence of red meat from the table, but, most importantly, an entire day’s menu contains fewer than 1,800 calories. I couldn’t pick a favorite meal—breakfast, lunch and dinner were all extraordinary, and included the freshest local biodynamic ingredients possible.
What is something you wished we all knew or were better at as travelers?
As travelers, I think we should all slow down and just take time to appreciate what is all around us, and the fact that we are able to travel at all. There has always been an urge to tick things off and to rush onto the next destination or sight, but there is so much more to be seen and enjoyed by simply taking your time—spend three nights somewhere rather than two, take the train instead of flying. As we emerge out of Covid-19 we are seeing clients start to book longer stays, with fewer stops, so hopefully the traveler’s mindset is changing for the better.
ICYMI up top: Remember when I said last week that our first Travel Hotline, on the subject of packing with Ann Mashburn, was this Thursday? Well, due to unavoidable scheduling conflicts, we’re rescheduling for next next Thursday, Nov 18, from 1-3pm EST. Now you have more time to come up with your most pressing packing questions. This is for paying newsletter subscribers only.