Bric-a-Brac 15
Paris' most charming artisanal shops and a few favorite hotels that get seriously into the holiday spirit!
This will be the last Bric-a-Brac of 2021—yes, we’re taking the next two weeks off! In the meantime, many readers seem to be heading to Paris over the holidays, and have been asking me for a Paris Black Book. I’ve been working on it, but the more I put into it, the more it’s starting to feel like a book! I should have it for you in January—consider it a belated Christmas gift—but for now, I’m going to share AOW Handmade founder Annie Oakley Waterman’s list of her favorite artisanal shops in Paris. Then on Friday, paid subscribers will be receiving a post about two of my favorite Paris neighborhoods, the 7th and the 3rd arrondissements, written by my friend Victoire de Taillac-Touhami, who lives and works there. Trust me, her taste is incredible—and her list makes me want to book a flight there right now! If you’d like to get her Paris list, and also access our story archive with all of our Black Books, you can tap this little blue button!
ARTISANAL SHOPS IN PARIS
by Annie Oakley Waterman
Since Paris is home, it’s a pleasure to share some of my favorites with you. These are spaces I personally love to visit—tucked away on charming side streets, run by kind, good people, offering quality handcrafted products, many still made in France.
Landline: In my eyes, this is one of the most exciting new shops in Paris. My friend Caroline spent nearly 10 years daydreaming of this concept and it’s incredible to see her bring it to life. Think of a general store filled with the chicest toys, the perfect work jacket, French boots, made-in-Europe tableware, and much more. All items are carefully selected and beautifully presented. It’s a shop with heart, beauty and soul. Plus, the prices are really fair! (11th arr.)
La Tuile A Loup: For ceramic lovers on the hunt for something really special, head on over to this adorable shop in the 5th, featuring the work of over 30 artists from across the country. The shop is all about timelessness over trends. As the owner says, “The French aren’t looking for pieces that feel new. They want well-crafted pottery that fits their daily routines.” The shop offers a mix of aptware, marbleware and folk-art pottery and is a great introduction to elements, colors and styles that are classically French. If you want to schedule a visit, email in advance for a rendezvous. (5th arr.)
Sentô: When I’m looking for that perfect Oxford blouse or silk top, Sentô is always top of mind. It has some of the most exquisite pieces, all entirely handmade in India. The style is chic and the pieces, which include hand-woven silk, naturally dyed tops, khadi and wool jackets, scarves and dresses, are all made at a level that are beyond luxe—there’s beauty in every delicate detail. (6th arr.)
Ailleurs: Another favorite home décor shop. You can tell the founder poured his heart and soul into this business, sourcing extremely unique finds from around the world. I find his eye for ceramics to be particularly strong—rustic but elegant, sophisticated beauty with a raw, organic edge. There’s enamel from Eastern Europe, throws from Portugal, as well as unique ceramics from Greece and beyond. It’s a gem in the Bastille that’s definitely worth a visit. (12th arr.)
Les Trésorerie: This gorgeous shop evokes the feeling of a chic general store, offering beautiful, functional items for the home. They source from brands throughout Europe, from Portuguese blankets and linens to French ceramics. This was my first stop when I moved to Paris and needed a few simple, classic pieces to cozy up my home. Not only are the products beautiful and useful, but most are made by hand, promoting the work of small-scale artists and independent businesses. (10th arr.)
In Girum Ceramics: This small pottery shop and atelier on a quiet back street in Le Marais is one of my favorites. Inspired by ancient European and Asian ceramic traditions, owner Guillaume Taliercio’s stoneware pieces are rustic, chic, and timeless. They also offer a ceramics class if you’re interested in a more interactive artistic experience during your time in Paris. (4th arr.)
Le Mont St Michel: For that French look, treat yourself to a gorgeous work jacket from here—the fabric and fit are perfection. They’ve been making these jackets since 1913 and all their pieces exude authenticity and craftsmanship. I live in my work coat and love their sweaters too. (3rd arr.)
Boutique Noe: To complete the look, check out Gallego Desportes’ line of French clothing at Boutique Noe in the Marais. If you’re looking for a French trench, button down, or a beautiful striped top, this is a great go-to for those who like that oversized but polished silhouette. (3rd arr.)
Empreintes: I couldn’t create this list without mentioning this store, which highlights French makers from across the country. Run by Ateliers d’Art de France, it’s a dose of inspiration for those looking to explore the diversity and quality of what is made in France. The concept shop features over 1,000 fine craft creations, all handmade in limited-edition collections. (3rd arr.)
Les Soufflerie: A bit of a trek to get to, but is well worth it if you’re looking for beautiful hand-blown glassware. Created by wife-and-husband team Valentina and Sébastien Nobile, they aim to revive the glass-blowing tradition in Paris and beyond. They make everything from vases to carafes to candle holders, finding inspiration in everyday designs and objects. Email to make an appointment. (15th arr.)
Ogata: Step inside and be transported to Kyoto—this is one of the most beautiful shops that I’ve seen in Paris, with a selection of handmade ceramics, incense and teas, to handmade Japanese treats. If you have time, be sure to book a meal next door at their exquisite restaurant. (3rd arr.)
1 to 7: For lovers of Japanese craft, I also suggest this gem of a boutique hidden on a side street on the Left Bank, next to Picasso’s old atelier. This shop features a hand-selected collection of Japanese ceramics from young artists using ancient craft techniques. (6th arr.)
Buly 1803: While it’s a little more on the radar, this is a beautiful transportive experience that calls to mind what a shopping experience was like here in the 19th century. Poke your head into this beautiful shop and treat yourself to a handmade candle or carefully selected perfume. (6th arr.)
John Woodbridge: Beautiful totes and bags made in Paris in a small, traditional leather workshop. The leather used for these heritage pieces is incredibly durable and certainly made to last a lifetime. The small carry totes are the perfect travel companion. (6th arr.)
ITALIAN SECRET FLAVOR WEAPON
On our recent road trip, we spent a couple of days in Parma, and one night we had the best bollito misto (boiled meats) at a fantastic restaurant called Cocchi. (Thank you Michael and Lindsay Tusk for the rec!) On the side, they served this jellied fruit that was very confusing to us first-timers—they called it mostardo, but it looked sweet and like nothing we’d want on our meat. We were quickly schooled—it’s an incredibly spicy condiment that’s the perfect way to add contrasting flavor, contrast, and color. We brought a jar back, and of course, now that we’re home, have started seeing mostardo in every specialty Italian market here. If you don’t have one near you, here’s a link with several options, but I always recommend trying to find a more local solution if possible!
HOTELS FOR THE HOLIDAYS
Little known secret: I’m super into Christmas. Advent calendars, decorating the tree, carols blasting. I also love hotels that get into it in a serious way. Like the Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco, with their two-story gingerbread house! I’m dying to get to London during the holiday season to see the epic trees that Claridge’s and the Connaught do, where artists like Tracey Emin and Antony Gormley and designers like Christian Louboutin and Kim Jones create their trees each year. I’ll never forget the Plaza Athénée, which one year had a festive skating rink in their their courtyard, and another year, a carousel that the kids could ride for free as many times as they wanted. Clearly we preferred the latter, as we sat with our friends enjoying drinks while our children were super occupied and never happier. I’d love to hear your favorite Christmastime hotels in the comments! Wishing you all a healthy and fun holiday season—thanks for subscribing and see you in the New Year!
excellent post
Request to have more coverage of Portugal please! xo