Bric-a-Brac 19
Just Back From...Northern Portugal, an insider's addresses in the DR, favorites from the founder of Pretty Hotels, and ask Margherita Missoni your packing Qs!
I’m so excited to announce that Margherita Missoni is going to teach us how to Pack Like a Pro! Margherita doesn’t EVER travel with anything but a carry-on—from three weeks in Thailand to Paris Fashion Week in the winter. She has her packing down to a science: it’s exciting, it’s liberating, it’s awe inspiring! And she’s taking YOUR questions in this post’s comments—and giving advice based on them—so fire away!
JUST BACK FROM…Northern Portugal
by Annie Oakley Waterman, founder of AOW Handmade
I’ve spent a lot of time in Portugal over the years, but this past December curiosity led me to the north of the country, which was totally new to me. It’s an area that’s captured my imagination for some time as I work with a number of textile producers in the region. While planning the trip, I made sure to sneak in stays at two boutique hotels that have been on my list for quite some time: Quinta da Corte in the Douro Valley and Casa Das Penhas Douradas in Serra da Estrela.
Wine lovers will adore the Douro Valley – it is actually the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. But beyond the spectacular vineyards, it’s also perfect for those who simply enjoy exploring small villages, wandering in the beauty of local orchards, or eating a lot of charcuterie. Steep terraces covered in vines and verdant orchards pour down to the mellow, meandering Douro River. It's quite a sight to see, along with the quintas that dot the valley’s landscape, which are small wine-producing farms where you can do tastings or simply enjoy the historic architecture.
Quinta da Corte is a must-visit. It’s an absolute gem, surrounded by its 25 hectares of vineyards. Their wines are almost worth the journey on their own, but also be sure to taste their olives or pick up some oil. Even in winter – when waking up to fog – it was cozy and gorgeous. We would take morning walks through the fog, and then around 10 or 11 the sky would open up to breathtaking views of the river. I can only imagine how it is in the spring or fall. The style of the area evokes 19th-century authenticity, with terracotta floors and hand-painted tiles, both of which radiate a sense of warmth and comfort. I would love to go back and spend more time here.
From the Douro, we ventured south to Serra de Estrella, home to some of the highest mountain ranges in Portugal. The area offers stunning, dramatic views and endless trails that will tempt anyone who loves hiking. If you make it to Mantegias, a small village nestled in this mountain range, you can visit centuries-old textile companies that have been sustaining ancient weaving know-how. Pick up a beautiful throw blanket from Ecola or Burel, two of Portugal’s most iconic heritage brands. Then treat yourself to a stay at one of Burel’s hotels, Casa Das Penhas Douradas. I imagine it’s lovely any time of year, but in winter – due to the surreal foggy weather – it evokes a serene, Japanese feel. After a long walk in the mountains, you can cozy up by taking advantage of one of their saunas or warm pools. The food is incredible, too. The hotel strives to source locally and is committed to creating a sustainable business model. For example, they use local wool to cover part of their interior walls to ensure energy efficiency. Their restaurant uses local, seasonal ingredients area and attracts active travelers to the region to boost tourism to this remote area, encouraging people to get outside and enjoy nature in a respectful manner while supporting the local economy.
THE LIST: Santo Domingo & Las Terrenas, DR
by Alban Roger, Creative Director
The Dominican Republic is a place I've visited frequently over the past seven years, and each time I land in Santo Domingo I look forward to the connection I feel there with both history and nature. Spending one night in the capital city is mandatory—it would be a shame to miss the beauty and the excitement of the revived Colonial Zone. Just a two-hour drive away, amidst palm trees and coffee farms and at the very end of one of the most beautiful highways in the world, Las Terrenas is arguably the most stunning part of the island. I'm glad to share all of my happy places with you, and maybe I'll see you there.
Ciudad Colonial, Santo Domingo
Casas Del XVI: Spread out throughout Zona Colonial, Casas del XVI is a series of fully restored colonial houses. Thanks to designer Patricia Reid’s eye and taste, the Spanish colonial vibe mixed with Caribbean colors makes this hotel one of the most special in the DR. Favorite house: Casa del Diseñador, which used to belong to Dominican fashion designer Oscar de La Renta—with a patio and pool, two dramatic yet soberly chic bedrooms and an incredible outside living area.
Casa Alfarera: Ysabela Molini is passionate about her craft, the science of ceramics and the sourcing of local materials. Founded in 2013, the stoneware house quickly became a signature of new Ciudad Colonial style. Located in a 17th-century house, the store has a backyard atelier where visitors can watch the ceramics being made by hand.
Casa Palma Decor: A treasure hunt could be the most apt way to describe the newest venture of the Reid family. With Casa Palma, Patricia Reid (also behind the impeccable taste of Casas del XVI) and her daughter, Isabela Egan, offer a rich array of home goods collected from their travels (Italy, Turkey, Thailand, etc.) and gems of Dominican craftsmanship.
La Alpargatería: Ricardo Fernandez was born in a small village in Spain, where espadrille-making was the local craft tradition. When he settled in Santo Domingo, he opened his own shop and atelier. La Alpargateria’s backyard is the perfect place to grab a bite and fresh chinola juice while waiting for your custom-made espadrilles. Return at night to join a young creative crowd enjoying games of vintage flipper and papas bravas.
Maraca: With its pink facade, Miami Vice influence and over-the-top tropical theatrical decor, this colorful restaurant is bringing a contemporary vibe to Ciudad Colonial, with eclectic cuisine and great people-watching.
Las Terrenas, Samana Bay
The Peninsula House: On a hill overlooking Las Terrenas, this massive Victorian house feels like it’s always been here. With an incredible collection of antiques throughout, The Peninsula House is where old-world sophistication and Caribbean flair meet under one roof.
Caffé Coson: After a successful fashion career in Paris, Italian-born Marzia and her husband, Ivan, decided to open their restaurant on one of the DR’s most beautiful beaches, Playa Coson. This is Marizia’s home, so naturally the cuisine is Italian. Be sure to try the pasta with local crab or lobster and homemade gelato—and chat with the host, whose life stories are as memorable as the view and the food.
El Mosquito: The original Mosquito used to be a jet-set hotspot. Destroyed by fire more than a decade ago, the Mosquito was reborn in the same spot with some welcome upgrades, including a rooftop bar for hand-crafted cocktails and tapas created by the new Peruvian chef.
La Candelita: This little comedor consists of a raffia roof and a kitchen in a little cabin. Right next to the fish market, your meal practically jumps from sea to plate. We’ve tried a lot of comedores, but this one wins for the proximity to the beach and the best lambi a la criolla (or conch). Be sure to order the tostones.
Playa Ermitaño: After thirty minutes at sea, reaching the isolated and pristine Playa Ermitaño from Las Terrenas (or el Limon) is extremely rewarding. Once hunger strikes (there’s no cell service at Playa Ermitaño), ask one of the local fishermen to grill their catch of the day.
THE NAVIGATOR Q&A
Robert Kittel, Founder, Pretty Hotels
Tell us about you and your company.
Pretty Hotels is all about beautiful places to stay. We recommend hotels that we think meet the taste of a certain group of travelers looking for “that pretty place.” We like the less-is-more approach and appreciate hosts who run their timeless properties in a more sustainable fashion.
I had previously worked as a journalist, mainly in travel and hospitality. I used to receive a lot of invitations from luxury hotel brands whose marketing and PR are super professional, but for me, these properties felt a bit like guarded grand homes with a ton of staff. Not everyone has the budget to stay at the Georges V. I always had a crush on more creative and authentic hotels. Especially in the mountains and in some hidden beach towns, there is a new breed of hotelier with a true passion for their regional history, local food and wine. I wanted to give them a platform so that they can find guests who appreciate their effort and ideas.
Over the past few years, Pretty Hotels has become a wonderful venture with ten employees and more than 130 member hotels. Throughout the year, we get roughly 400 requests from hotels, chalets and holiday homes but, after visiting, we only accept a few. Because I am based in Germany, most of the members are in Central Europe, but I’d be open to slowly expanding to other continents.
Underrated location, overrated location?
In recent years, I’ve visited South Tyrol many times and I always find new, hidden treasures. The landscape is so beautiful and the fact that you are in Italy makes it very special. We have six member hotels in and near Merano, all of which I can wholeheartedly recommend (Ottmanngut, Schwarzschmied, Villa Arnica, 1477 Reichhalter, Zum Riesen, Miramonti). There are also four restaurants to die for (i.e., Wirsthaus zur Blauen Traube, Miil), and great mountain huts and vineyards. Everyone I’ve sent in August and September writes to say, “Thank you so much. We just fell in love and will be back soon!”
Overrated: I would say Maldives, although I understand that a CEO who has a 24/7 schedule and lives in a big city loves the idea of staying in a beach villa where everything is organized and the water temperature is 25 degrees. I just don’t like the fact that they are building one luxury resort after another and pretend that every single one is so unique and sustainable that they are now saving the planet.
How about a recent discovery and personal favorite?
I just came back from Catalonia, Spain, where I met the lovely owner and host of a new boutique hotel in Begur, right by the sea, called La Bionda. I must admit, it doesn’t happen very often that I like everything in a hotel: it’s a mixture of Wes Anderson/Soho House/Costa Brava/Paris 1920s style, one of these places where you just want to move in.
Regarding my personal favorite: A tour from Cuzco to La Paz, staying at simple family houses and ending at Chacaltaya Peak at an altitude of 17,785 ft.
Do you have a favorite wellness hotel?
Wellness hotels in general attract a weird group of mankind who never leave the hotel. But there are three places in South Tyrol I would highly recommend. The Miramonti Boutique Hotel, where the local owners and hosts Carmen and Klaus see wellness from a more creative and design-led perspective. And the two 5-star Adler Lodges (Adler Lodge Ritten and Adler Lodge Alpe). Everyone loves them. P.S.: They are opening a new outpost on the beach in Sicily this summer.
How about a family-friendly hotel?
Kids need a pool and/or a beach. I would always send families to Forte dei Marmi in summer and urge them to rent a house there. The bagni on the beach are as beautiful as ever and the kids can deposit their pail and shovel by the beach chair. The place is still full of style and for the parents there is the artsy town of Pietrasanta, only five minutes from Forte Dei Marmi. We will be adding a new member here in spring, called Albergo Pietrasanta, owned by local art collectors. It’s very classy and old school—I discovered it last year by accident.
The hotel you most want to steal something from—and what?
Cutlery from the Suvretta House in St. Moritz. I once ran into the Swedish Queen there, and knowing that so many kings and counts have used the cups made it seem quite cool.
Hotel with the most epic view?
Last summer I received a request from a place called L’ Escale du Ciel. It’s a 30-minute drive through the mountains behind Cannes and Nice on the Côte d’Azur. Host Judith owns and runs this small B&B (rooms from 180€) with great passion. It has a unique swimming pool on a slope. If you jump in before sunrise, it’s a view you will never forget. And it’s Provence, after all.
Food worth traveling for?
In recent years, Austria has become an epicenter for food and wine lovers. We are planning a gourmet tour by bike to go from west to the east across the country and dine and stay in our best gourmet hotels. We will start at Gasthof Hirschen in Schwarzenberg, one of these discoveries you have to fall in love with. Drop me a note if you are interested in joining—robert@pretty-hotels.com. One of the best is Mesnerhaus in the Lungau valley. Don’t be irritated by the absence of Michelin stars here—they definitely deserve one or two. In Austria you can only receive a Michelin star if your place is located in Salzburg or Vienna.
How about a hotel that most defines a destination?
Bertarello Country Home, one hour north of Rome. It’s the most authentic experience you can have. Owner and host Beatrice Peruzzi runs a restaurant and a bar in Milano and converted this rural castle into a country residence for sophisticated travelers.
What is your biggest pet peeve in a hotel?
I have always had trouble with the lighting system in 5-star hotels. I often used to sleep with a light on, because I wasn’t able to switch it off. Most of our member hotels have bedside lamps from 1930. You push a button to switch it on and then switch it off with the same button. It’s incredible.
What is something you wished we all knew or were better at as travelers?
I am just happy that we are able to hop on trains, planes and boats again. As for my hoteliers: I would recommend that some people from certain countries have a drink (or two) before they check into a hotel. Sometimes not everything is perfect when you arrive at a place. But it’s always good when we just smile and tell the host or the person at check-in that it is absolutely no problem. Because in the end, you’re on holiday and that’s very nice.
Best ways to reach you?
Web; Instagram; Email: hello@pretty-hotels.com
Major questions for MM. What about packing sneakers and/or exercise clothing? Do you use hotel laundry services as part of this strategy on trips longer than a few days? Do you bring your own hair dryer and if yes, what type? Is there anything you use on a regular basis that you "let go of" when you are traveling?
The most challenging issue and heaviest part of my carry-on suitcase is my toiletries kit. I’ve whittled it down to the essentials in small containers. Yet it is still bulky. Help! Does the perfect hanging toiletries kit exist? Is the ere something better than hanging that you recommend?