Bric-a-Brac 61
Vienna for an elegant weekend; packing essentials from Trunk’s Mats Klingberg; a Colombia trifecta of city, beach and mountains; and a charming new Bordeaux hotel in a very cool neighborhood.
JUST BACK FROM… Vienna
I ended up in Vienna with a group of my closest friends who, like me, all flew in from Europe. We were invited by our friend Fallon Nachmani, who represents the impeccable Hotel Sacher—which has a distinct Ritz-in-Vienna vibe. Opened in 1876 and still family-owned and -run, the hotel is a destination in its own right.
Arriving in the room, I found “Diana at the Sacher” embroidered on my pillowcase. A very nice touch, and one that I stole and brought home with me. The Sacher is famous for the Sacher-Torte, created in 1832 by the pâtissier father of the Sacher’s original owner. People line up around the block for this chocolate sponge cake with apricot jam, which is very much worth it.
The Blaue Bar and the green breakfast room were standouts. You’ll look and feel like you’re in a Wes Anderson film, opening your newspaper and drinking your beverage of choice each morning. The Austrians here will quite literally make anything you want. Nothing is a no. Each evening we’d do apperò at the Blaue Bar, which is covered in blue velvet, as well as post-dinner drinks if we weren’t at the American Bar. Designed by Adolf Loos, the Art Deco American Bar might be my favorite bar in the world. Marbled checker floors, emerald-green leather banquets and yellow lights create an ambience people try to emulate all over the world. It’s always packed and they pour a mean cocktail. Make a reservation in advance if you want a table! We were here a lot, for Negronis, martinis, or, if you’re me, a white mezcal Negroni.
From there we went one night to Salzamt, a very authentic Austrian restaurant. Everything in the city is walking distance, and it’s quite romantic to curve through the streets on your way to and from dinner. Don’t miss the clear beef broth to start, and the schnitzel. This is a very photogenic restaurant—even the clientele’s blowouts look like they are out of a Hitchcock film.
We dressed in black tie for the Vienna State Opera, and at intermission popped out for a cocktail at Hotel Bristol. If you like horses, the Spanish Riding School is a special visit, an institution dedicated to the preservation of classical dressage. We came with to-go coffees in hand for a 10am showing and watched one of their training sessions (you can find tickets online)—it was like an hour of meditation. The Albertina is like The Met of Vienna—don’t miss it.
The Viennese are quite elegant, and the street style of the elderly in particular is impeccable—a lot of browns, muted greens and neutral tones. There’s not a hair out of place, every woman has a blowout and every man sees a barber. I haven’t been to another city that feels more like a time warp—the pace is slow, thoughtful and routine-based. The Viennese seem to have uniformity throughout their day, just like their dressing rituals.
On that front, Knize stole my heart—an old-school menswear shop with cashmere sweaters in every color in a two-story building with an interior also designed by Adolf Loos (the architect who rules this city). I don’t know if it was the inspiring interiors or the quality of the work, but I bought six sweaters and two scarves. Safe to say I won’t be needing Charvet anymore, and it’s a fraction of the price. Still, in this most traditional of cities, there are a few modern designer clothing stores, like Song (actually owned by my friend’s mother), which houses all the cool designer clothes in the city.
On the way to the airport, we stopped at Gasthaus Poschl for a final lunch, maybe the best potato salad I’ve had in my life.
For three days we walked, we talked, we danced at Eden Bar, ate our weight in schnitzel, drank Riesling at noon and had the most fabulous holiday. I’d recommend going in fall/winter, when the city is in a festive mood and you’re practically forced into these opulent interiors, though I’m looking forward to seeing it in a different light when I return next spring.
Diana Bartlett is an American-born, Paris-based photographer and the author of L’Altra Gloria, about Le Marche, Italy. (On the road nearly 300 days a year, she did a “How I Pack” story for us here.)
YOU ASKED FOR IT
"I'm going to a wedding outside Bogota in January (from LA) and have a couple days to a week after to explore somewhere else. Should I go to Cartagena? Santa Marta (I heard some great things and some mixed things), or go somewhere else in South America/Central America? The choices are overwhelming!" — Tori
We asked Colombia specialist and El Camino co-founder Katalina Mayorga to take this one!
There is absolutely no reason you need to leave Colombia! Colombia is the second most biodiverse country in the world and the only country in South America that has oceans, mountains, plains, the jungle, and every ecosystem in between. It is also super easy and affordable to get around with domestic flights, and no flight to any major mainland airport is more than an hour. If you are going to Bogota and it is your first time in Colombia, I think pairing it with Cartagena and the Parque Tayrona area an hour from Santa Marta could make for a very special vacation, where you will feel like you got two totally different vacations packed into one. Parque Tayrona has the highest coastal mountains next to the ocean in the world, and makes for some stunning landscapes. There is also a special grounding energy in the region because it is protected by four indigenous communities—the Kogui, Arhuaco, Kankuamo and Wiwa.
You can check out my previous Cartagena recs for Yolo here for ideas on what to do and where to stay in Cartagena. I would stay three nights in Cartagena, then head up north along the Caribbean coast for 3-4 more nights. If there is availability, escape to Gitana del Mar. It is one of my favorite wellness resorts in the world and has some of the best food in the country. If you want to dig in further and get a feel for the area, check out this Instagram highlight.
P.S. Note that there are no direct flights from Cartagena to Santa Marta, so the easiest and simple way is to take private transport between the two destinations. It is about a 5 hour drive, and I have done this route several times with no issues.
Colombian-American Katalina Mayorga is the CEO and co-founder of El Camino Travel, which focuses on travel for women, and co-owner of guesthouse Casa Violeta in Granada, Nicaragua.
GUEST BOOK: Hotel Lola, Bordeaux
Best for… A charming new place to stay in a really cool neighborhood (St Michel) that is right by the river, the flea market and all the antique shops, the Marché Capucins (best daily morning food market), a walk from some of our favorite restaurants, cafes and bars, and literally across the street from the beautiful Basilique Saint-Michel. Most of the hotels in town are closer to the tourist center, but staying here all we had to do was walk outside and feel like we were in the right part of town.
The vibe… Feels like a Bordeaux-style townhouse–you walk into a fantastic bar, which is where they check you in and make you a drink. Then you head upstairs to your room. Don’t expect a lobby or a designated receptionist or bellman—the bartender brought our luggage up to the room.
Rooms… Well-appointed (rattan headboard, felt lampshades), with a smart use of space: the bathroom sink/vanity is built into the backside of the headboard, and the bath/shower opens out to the room. It’s small but comfortable.
The food & drink… The barman was brilliant—super passionate about cocktail making, which is not so easy to find in a town that is much more wine focused. We didn’t eat here, but I know they offer a nice breakfast and serve some food at cocktail hour. Our favorite restaurant, Au Bistrot, is just a couple of blocks away.
Be sure to… Check the flea market timing, and if you can build your stay around being here on a flea market day, do! Otherwise, there are plenty of great antiques shops just on the other side of the basilica. (For more Bordeaux recs, see our Bordeaux Black Book!)
Date of stay… November 15, 2023
HOW I PACK
By Mats Klingberg
What’s your go-to luggage?
I’m very much a carry-on-only kind of guy. It’s generally only on return flights where I end up checking, because I’ve ended up buying too many things, or my purchases consist of wine and food so the only way to get them back is to check. I’ve waited long enough in my life for bags to come out the other end, or for bags that haven’t made their connecting flight, so prefer to always keep everything with me.
For long haul trips, my go-to suitcase is the biggest carry-on size in black polycarbonate from Rimowa, which we used to sell at Trunk. Much lighter than the metal ones. With some good planning of what goes into the suitcase and what goes on me while traveling, I can easily manage for a 1- to 2-week trip. Factoring in the use of hotel laundry services, of course.
For short-haul flights in Europe, I usually use a bag called Trip by Japanese brand Yoshida Porter. It seems to have exactly the dimensions of one of those things that they have at the gate to check the size of your bag and it’s never failed! The bag itself doesn’t weigh anything and I’m always amazed how much I can fit into it. The bag has great long straps that easily goes over my shoulder as I make a dash for the plane or out the airport as quickly as possible. Might not be the chicest of bags, but it’s super practical. On top of this I’ve got my Trunk tote bag that contains my laptop, all cables, toiletry kit, passport, etc.
How do you approach the basics?
I don’t think through exactly what I’m going to wear, but most of the things I have in my wardrobe can be fairly easily mixed and matched or dressed up and down, so depending on where I’m going and the time of the year, I make a well-curated edit of the things that I believe will give me the most options for that specific trip.
For a shorter trip I bring the same number of underwear, tees, socks, shirts, etc as days I’m going to be away. For longer trips, I tend not to bring more than five of each, as the hotel’s laundry services are there exactly for this reason. Besides that, I usually bring:
Two jackets - you’ll find me in Valstar most of the year, but in winter I love my Kaptain Sunshine coat.
Two pairs of trousers - almost exclusively Trunk’s, but also Resolute denim from Japan, and those chinos from Incotex.
Two pairs of shoes - Alden loafers, Paraboot lace-ups, or slip-ons from CQP.
Two sweaters - we have a wide range of lovely knitwear in merinos, lambswool, cashmere and Shetlands at Trunk, so that’s what I wear most of the time. But I also really like the chunkier knits that Batoner makes.
Plus gym/running clothes, and if the destination will be warm, I of course also bring a pair of swim trunks and a pair of flip flops.
Are you a roller or a folder?
I’m very much a folder. It’s the habit of being a retailer I guess, but I also think shirts and many other things will stay less creased by folding rather than rolling.
Any other packing tricks or hacks?
Not sure if it’s a trick, but I always aim to make sure there are no empty gaps anywhere in my luggage. Shoes are filled with socks and underwear before they go in, and then I fill in the gaps with my running shorts and belts, to make it all nice and flat. If packing my Rimowa, all this goes on the right side and if I’m using my Porter, it goes in the bottom to create a good solid base to pack the rest on. Everything is nicely folded in the same dimensions (as they would be in a shop), so that they slot into the suitcase or bag using up all the available space.
I stack everything by category, so all trousers together, then the shirts, tees, sweaters, etc, so quick and easy to pull out whatever it is that I’m looking for without having to take everything out.
What’s your shoe strategy?
I prefer to travel in CQP slip-ons to make it easier in case you need to take off your shoes when going through security, but also to make it easier during the flight itself. Lace ups and sneakers go in the bag.
How do you think about accessories?
Scarves are my main accessories. I usually have a big one with me from Begg x Co that not only fits nicely around my neck, but also serves as a nice lightweight blanket to wear in flight.
Besides that, I tend to have a cap with me (primarily for running or if going to the beach or the pool) and in the winter also a beanie and some gloves.
What’s always in your Dopp kit/toiletry bag?
Not a lot, to be honest. Marvis toothpaste, toothbrush, razor, face cream (Kiehl’s at the moment), Uno hair stuff from Shiseido that I buy in Japan, deodorant, nail clippers, silicone ear plugs and a small bottle of Angelica fragrance from Perfumer H.
On a plane, what essentials does your bag always contain?
For easy access, I have all the essentials for the flight in my tote bag by my feet—laptop, cables, toiletry kit, passport, wallet, reading material, etc. For reading, I have the latest issue of Monocle and Konfekt and usually also a good book. For noise cancellation and better sleep, I prefer to use silicone ear plugs over headphones.
What’s your pharmacy kit?
Don’t have much of a pharmacy kit with me, so I go to a local pharmacy, which I very much enjoy anyway when getting to a new place. When I’m traveling to sunny locations, I have a good sun cream for the face with a high SPF with me (CeraVe at the moment). Many hotels have sunscreen you can use at the pool or beach, so happy to use these or just visit a local shop to buy something there.
Do you have a travel uniform?
I sort of do, at least for long-haul flights, and it usually consists of a navy long sleeve polo from Trunk, a navy Boglioli jacket, a pair of beige chinos from Trunk and a pair of slip-ons from CQP. Comfortable, but at the same time elegant enough for meetings or drinks pre or post flight.
I also bring my own navy lightweight cozy pants that I can easily fit in my tote bag and change into once airborne on a long-haul flight.
After a career working for Giorgio Armani and American Express, Mats Klingberg founded Trunk Clothiers, a menswear store on London’s Chiltern Street in 2010. It’s been so successful that five years ago, he opened a second location in Zurich.
MOODBOARD
Our favorite instagram account this week.
The Greek label Zeus + Dione has redesigned the crew uniforms for Aegean Air, drawing inspiration from the Greek skies and seas. How great is the pilot’s peacoat?!
In an effort to combat overtourism, Venice will impose an entry fee on day-trippers during peak travel times starting next April.
Our friends at 84 Rooms have a cool-looking new book out, The Alps: Hotels, Destinations, Culture—a guide to 84 family-run boutique hotels in Europe’s five Alpine countries.
Eleven Experiences announced its 13th property, Eleven Owen River Lodge, in the Tasman Region of New Zealand’s South Island—an angling lodge famed for its crystal-clear rivers and trophy brown trout.
The Saul Leiter Foundation recently published a monograph to commemorate the centennial of his birth, featuring the late artist’s paintings and photographs that capture the beauty of everyday life in NYC.
Turkish carrier Corendon Airlines is creating “adults-only” sections on certain routes, allowing child-free travelers to enjoy a quieter environment.
Just in time for ski-season, TrenItalia’s new overnight route from Rome to Cortina d’Ampezzo starts service next weekend.
Our friends at Maremma Safari Club have just announced the dates for their guided walking trips to unexplored corners of Italy throughout 2024.
Collection of Produce - COP in Vienna is fantastic. Also Almanac Palais Hotel is great.
Reading this as a local really makes me smile and agree, that all those mentioned locations (despite old-fashioned at first), are frequented by different generations and among my favourites. We love a good routine, and walking to work via Albertina and Burggarten is a daily ritual of mine.
Surely there are a few newcomers that are worth a visit too, however, you covered the "Vienna basics" pretty well. Worth mentioning: Schwarzes Kameel and I can very much recommend a stroll around Westbahnstraße and Schleifmühlgasse for some vintage furniture and small pottery stores (Lichterloh, Burggasse, Naschmarkt flea market).