Bric-a-Brac 63
A cozy-chic Greek mountain retreat, cold-plunge trips from SF to Sweden, Cali’s OG “health rush” (which begat its Modernist movement, too!) and wellness routines to keep you balanced while on the road
We’re continuing our Cure theme—we took last week off for our Paris Dispatch, but this and next week we’re digging in our wellness heels. And not just here in the newsletter—I’m heading to Buchinger Wilhelmi next week, the Marbella clinic! While we will miss our favorite people at the fasting clinic in Uberlingen, we thought we’d mix it up and see how we fare on the Costa del Sol. I’m also checking into the Marbella Club the night before, so I’ll be writing about that soon. Back in the States, Alex just checked out the World Spa in Brooklyn, a massive new bathhouse containing everything from Finnish saunas to Japanese onsens, and next week we’re publishing our first Green Book—all things healthy and wellness. We’re starting with NYC, and then we’ll do other cities that are more challenging, the kinds of places where you normally indulge, like Paris and London.
But back to the present. I am so excited about today’s post—we have some great stuff that I was personally so interested to read. The Organic Pharmacy was one of my favorite lines I discovered when Clara was a baby, and its founder, Margo Marrone, shares her travel protocols with us, all of which I want to copy immediately. Libby de Lana, who has inspired me to do daily walks with her “This Morning Walk” posts and who has developed a regular cold-plunge practice, shares some of her favorite cold-water “dip trips,” and also how to dunk into a body of water near you (including your shower!). Another transporting wellness journey (in an armchair kind of way) is the great book Sunseekers: The Cure of California, which we first discovered at the Big Sur Bakery gift shop, and have been obsessed with ever since. And I’m sharing my experience from the amazing Manna Hotel where I spent last weekend. My friend Nausika, who owns the beautiful Skinopi Lodge in Milos and has impeccable taste, visited the new hotel (which opened in July) in November, and texted me to say we needed to come asap, so I booked flights immediately. She picked us up at the Athens airport and we drove two hours to the Manna, in the center of the Peloponnese in Arcadia, the mythological home of Pan and Hermes. We’d road-tripped all around the Peloponnese before, but had never crossed it, so this was such a revelation—incredible hiking in beautiful fir forests of Mount Mainalo that looked so much like the Pacific Northwest.
GUEST BOOK: Manna Hotel, Arcadia, Peloponnese
The background…The history of the hotel is such a good story. In 1913 it was built as a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients, as the mountain air was the cure for it, and then when penicillin made institutions like these obsolete, it was abandoned. The now-owner, Stratis Batagias, went to summer camp about a mile away from the age of five. As a young teenager, he and his friends would sneak over to it with flashlights and tell ghost stories. He was always in love with the building, and when it finally came up for auction in 2014 in the midst of the country’s financial crisis, he bought the lease. It was a huge undertaking—the project took over 7 years to finish, opening in July of 2023. Stratis put so much heart into this place—it’s so thoughtfully conceived and executed—and you can feel that throughout the property.
The vibe…It’s a brilliant place to stay—Matt and I kept saying that we wished there was a place like this within two hours of NYC. We were there on the weekend, and it was filled with chic Athenians in winter/hiking gear. It was the first time in our many trips to Greece that we’ve been the only foreigners in a place—I loved that everyone was speaking Greek to me, but the staff all spoke English, so Matt was fine.
Stratis worked with K-Studio, a prolific Greek architecture firm who have done other noteworthy projects in the country (Dexamenes and Kalesma might ring a bell). While sanatorium might suggest cold and clinical, it’s quite the opposite—it’s warm and cozy with big fireplaces and lots of wood and shearling details, but also quiet and minimal. Our room was a suite with a large copper tub, and huge windows onto the fir forests of the mountains. We loved the staff—from the friendliest front doormen (wearing the best gray wool capes) to the enthusiastic front desk team, bartenders and waiters.
The food & drink… Our first meal, dinner, was epic. While their kitchen leans mountain Greek, they do some clever riffs—the lamb shank was cooked sous vide before it was roasted, so it was the most delicious, moist (hate that word but what else?!) lamb I’ve ever eaten. There was a fantastic Greek salad that substituted pumpkin and sweet potato for tomatoes, in keeping with their seasonal approach. And there were all sorts of dishes incorporating local foraged mushrooms or truffles. They have a wine cellar with a very informed team of waiters who directed us to wines we would never have known about. Breakfasts are incredible—one area has all the bread and pastry offerings with at least three kinds of “pies”: spinach, cheese, and a chicken/tomato one, as well as a sweet bougatsa. There were several types of yogurts (I loved the local sheep one) and at least three kinds of local honey—one of them opalescent and thick called vanilia, the best honey I’ve ever had. Local jams (fig, melon, strawberry), which were made in season, were incredible. And that was just part of the buffet. On the last day, we ordered scrambled eggs with zucchini, mint and feta, which were so good we’re going to copy it when we get home. The cocktails were also spot on; while we are consistently martini and Negroni people, they had a great selection of whisky and bourbon—exactly what you want in the mountains.
The wellness…Even if I hadn’t left my room and just sat on the outdoor terrace, staring out over the fir forest and breathing in the cleanest air, the trip would have been worth it. But of course we were going to take advantage of all the hiking trails just outside the front door—we were in Arcadia, after all, the origin of the metaphorical utopia. There are over 80km of marked trails in this area, called the Mainalo Trail, and many of the paths have been used since antiquity.
We were lucky to have good weather, albeit quite cold. It was around 35 degrees, which is freezing for Greece, but it was perfect for hiking. On our first hike we walked about 6km through some of the most beautiful mossy oak-filled path and past waterfalls, and end in the tiny village of Valtesiniko, the site of an ornate church with beautiful chandeliers and iconography (apparently it’s one of 30 churches here!). We sat down for a cappuccino at Valtesiniko Cafe, which was so lovely and had the sweetest waiter—then the hotel sent someone to come pick us up so we didn’t have to walk all the way back. On our second day of hiking, we went out with a guide named Panagiotis who had moved to the area as a young man during the financial crisis, as there were no jobs in Athens. He taught himself survival skills, mushroom/plant/tree identification, memorized all of the trails, started his company, Explore Mainalo, and never looked back. While the mushroom season was very much over and we weren’t really on a truffle hunt, we had a beautiful hike, and he made us want to come back in the spring or fall for sure. Back at the hotel, we had excellent deep-tissue massages in the spa that leans Japanese, with a sauna and plunge pool. Even the gym is beautifully edited—all the equipment has wood and leather details.
Be sure to…Go to the Ioseph Taverna in the neighboring village of Magouliana, owned by two brothers who are farmers and butchers, Yiorgos and Thanassis (who happens to also be the mayor and the only taxi driver in the area). It was packed with locals and Greeks visiting for the weekend, a pinch-me moment for sure. The food was divine—grilled lamb chops, braised wild boar and fries, wild kale, their own homemade feta, and homemade yogurt with honey for dessert. We ate there for lunch two days in a row. The veal chop on day two was legendary. There’s also an honor cafe in Lasta, the neighboring village, where you can help yourself to ouzo, raki, coffee—even make yourself some eggs—and just leave what you can in the money box.
Date of Stay… Jan 12-15, 2024
DISPATCH: COLD WATER DIP TRIPS
By Libby DeLana
I started getting in the cold water 3 years ago. It was the start of the pandemic and I’d become curious if it was possible to shift, even fundamentally change, one’s identity. I spent most of my life saying out loud “I hate the cold.” It was a deep-bone fear from age 13, when I went camping in the Adirondacks and shivered all night, too shy to ask for help. This is a very limiting belief, especially in New England. I hate the cold means I stay away from activities, adventures, and experiences. Life. I decided to explore how sturdy this self-definition was. As it turns out, the way we define ourselves is very changeable. So now I seek out the cold—in specific, cold water—wherever I travel. Here are four favorite dip trips.
North of Boston/Newburyport
Getting in the water here is a privilege. The Merrimack River was originally the home of the Pennacook, part of a confederacy of Algonquin tribes that occupied the basin of the Merrimack and adjacent regions in New Hampshire. They called this area “Natukhog,” or Naticook. The word “Merrimack” comes from an Abenaki term meaning either “the place of strong current” or “a sturgeon.” I can vouch for both strong current and sturgeon here. This 115-mile river, once endangered, is in the process of healing. What drew indigenous people to the waterway also drew early settlers and later, during the Gilded Age, American entrepreneurs. Newburyport is the last stop on the river before it reaches the Atlantic. This is where we get in, a quirky little spot at the Salisbury Campground, where the water is usually quiet by the big river. I feel as if this river has many stories and that it is our responsibility to protect it.
In mid-December, the last time I was here, it was 19F degrees outside; the water read 42. It was before sunrise when I drove to our little cozy cove. As I got out of the car, my nostrils froze. As I often do, I had to remind myself that I want to do this. Then I looked east to the glow of the sunrise and thought, I wouldn’t have seen any of this if I were still in bed. Sometimes I have even said out loud “I see you. I feel your fear. I’m going in.” The beach is gentle and generous. This morning, there were 13 seals just off the beach, poking their heads up. We will often hear them snort and exhale, as if to say, Welcome.
I donned the gear that I’ve adopted over the course of many a cold morning: neoprene booties, swimsuit, cozy hat and mittens for in the water. Once out: towel, big swim coat, wool sweater, warm bevi in the car, where I change out of my suit. It’s challenging for the body to get back to baseline temperature in a cold, wet swimsuit. “Afterdrop” is no joke: the phenomenon of your body temperature continuing to drop even after you get out of cold water. Therefore, a 5 minute dip + 5 minute change at the beach + 3 minute walk to the car is actually a 13-minute plunge. This is important to remember when in the water.
When we get out, we usually head over to Middle Street Foods for a hot beverage or, depending on the time of day, go to Sunset Club for poke bowls and trivia, or Joppa Fine Foods for a glorious snack. Newburyport is a sweet little seaside community with a few charming hotels: Blue Inn and The Garrison Inn (which has an incredible tea room, Lady Fingers Tea Lounge), an elegant, well-curated bookstore Illume, and some sweet boutiques Salt and Grove, Red Bird Trading and Wishbasket.
San Francisco/Marin/Sausalito
A dear friend introduced me to a little family-friendly beach in Sausalito with easy access, protected waters and rowers nearby—Schoonmaker Beach. I care deeply for this person, so when I get in the water, I often think of him. There is energy in every body of water—tap into it.
This is the water that connects San Francisco Bay to the Pacific Ocean. It is defined by the headlands of the San Francisco Peninsula and the Marin Peninsula and, since 1937, is spanned by the Golden Gate Bridge. Despite being in a very populated area of Marin, there is a lot of wild in this water. One night, I got in and swam out a bit so that I would be in the water as the big full moon rose over Angel Island. Rowdy. Bright. Bold. Unapologetic. I dare say incredibly sexy. It was as if all the world’s energy was right there.
I swim with a group that gets in the water every morning, @ebb.and.flow.collective.sf. It is a loving, brave, wild, smart and welcoming community. It is amazing what happens when you do something hard together. You are bonded. After we get out, many of us go on over to Equator Coffee for steamy hot chai with frothy milk and a cardamon fika bun. It is delicious chai. Because we arrive all lit up after our dip and must look and sound very joyous, we have inspired some of the local regulars to get in with us! Sausalito has some wonderful places to visit when you are there: SALT boutique, Sushi Ran, Heath Ceramics, and Karl the Store, Fish.
Iceland
Getting in the water in Iceland was an entirely different game. Unfamiliar with the ecosystem, I needed to introduce myself to the water. Deep bow. We were 50 miles north of the Arctic Circle—66 North—and the water felt different. Clear, crystal clear, vibrant and bright. This water has traveled from the glaciers; I imagined that it was hundreds of years old. Each body of water has its own history and therefore its own personality. This water was peaceful, patient, historic, foundational and also fierce.
I was grateful to be getting in with my wonderful mermaid friends, Sarah and Claire. We had been in many bodies of water together on our dip trips, and this felt transportive. We were silent each time we got in. It felt like a profound privilege to be here. Ultimately it reminded us that we can do hard things, we need to embed play into our days and doing it together is where the magic of life resides.
A few absolutely lovely places to visit and things to see in Iceland: Element Hotel, Fishershund, the South coast, Isafjourdur. The best seafood restaurant I’ve ever been to is Tjöruhúsið; Simbahollin had the best waffles anywhere; Gudbjorg Lind Jonsdottir is a breathtaking photographer whose work was hanging in the waffle house. There are also cold exposure classes taught by Eva at Hvammsvik, and a legendary women's swim group at Nauthólsvík Beach.
Sweden
I landed in Kiurna in the afternoon—the northernmost city in Sweden, in the province of Lapland, about 100 miles north of the Arctic Circle. It’s home to the famous Icehotel, Sweden's highest mountain, Kebnekaise, and to the world's largest underground iron-ore mine. Kiruna is well-known for its well-preserved natural and cultural landscape, majestic mountains, glaciers, unregulated national rivers, over 6,000 lakes, and is the traditional home of the indigenous Sámi people.
Every body of water has a personality. There is consciousness in it. This water felt very pure and fresh; it didn’t lie—it was just wild and unapologetically cold cold cold. I almost didn’t want to get in because it felt so refined and clean.
The Väkkärä lodge cut a hole in the ice for us and put oil lanterns around the edge of the opening. It was literally breathtaking. While the actual temperature of the water was familiar (0C/32F), the environment was so raw, harsh and wild it felt colder getting in. In my head was the narrative, “You are 100 miles north of the Arctic Circle you ding-dong, what are you doing? You used to hate the cold. Maybe you still do?!” But in I got, and I am so happy I did. I don’t know how long I stayed in. It doesn’t matter.
People often ask, How long do you stay in? The answer is it depends. It is completely variable depending on air and water temperature, wind conditions, whether I feel hydrated, well-rested, or depending on my mood, time of day or the month.
My body is my guide, not the clock. I am learning to listen and trust my body. It knows how long I should stay in. I have also been attending to this practice now for several years, so have quite a bit of experience and can read the signals. A note: staying in longer is not better. “When you are calm, you are done.” - @breathe.my.power
TAKING THE (COLD) PLUNGE
1. Start with small steps. Cold showers. Add 15 seconds at the end of your shower each day until you reach a few minutes of cold water.
2. See if you can find someone to join you—having a buddy is fun and safe. Also check the hashtag #coldexposure to find groups near you.
3. Do some research on cold water exposure. Read resources. There are many articles and videos about the practice.
4. Consult your doctor before starting a cold-plunge practice.
5. Wear and bring the right gear.
Neck gaiter, mittens, two hats: one for the dip and one for when you get out.
Rechargeable pocket heaters (here)
Something to stand on when you get out. The sand is cold. An old bath mat is great.
Water bottle with warm water to rinse your feet.
Closed-toed slip-on shoes (Voited are great), not flip-flops, to make sure toes get covered. It’s helpful if they slip on so they’re easy to get on cold feet.
Wool/cashmere sweater to put on immediately after your suit comes off
Easy-on pants with no elastic at bottom. A poly fabric is helpful—wet legs stick to cotton.
Gill zip-up booties: I find it almost impossible to get neoprene booties/socks on and off when really cold. Zip on/off makes this moment much easier.
Old man socks. GOLDTOE Men's Windsor Wool Over-The-Calf Dress Socks, 3-Pairs No, they don’t provide any warmth. They simply make it a lot easier to get the booties on and off when hands are cold.
Invest in an easy-to-wear coat that covers your arse. @voited is great and my favorite mermaids have a 15% off code
WADING IN
1. Start with a quick dip. Get in the water, say hello, get out. No more than 1 minute is our guideline (below 50F)
2. Breathe. Focus on your breath. Find your calm.
3. As you approach the water, make sure you have clear intention and honestly, just get in. Don’t noodle around. It doesn’t get easier if you wait.
4. Dip with your mittens. You don't have to put your hands in the water—you can wear mittens and keep them under your chin. If do put your hands in, use your underarms to keep them warm. I often keep mine out when it gets below a certain temperature.
5. Try to get to a place of calm in your body, of presence. Listen to the water around you. Notice the details of where you are. It is easy to get overwhelmed by the temperature, but the temperature is actually a focusing agent. Use it. Focus. Welcome to right now.
6. Remember, you are safe. You can get out whenever your body is done.
7. Staying in longer isn’t “better.” Listen to your body. The more you do this practice, the more you will understand the messages your body is signaling. Remember it is ok to be uncomfortable.
8. Have fun. And enjoy the lessons embedded in the cold water.
APRÈS FREEZE
Have a place you consistently keep your car keys. It stinks to get to your car shivering cold and not know which pocket they’re in.
Keep a warm drink and some extra warmies in your car. I keep a sleeping bag and extra hat/mittens.
Support your body in getting back to baseline/warm. Remember the AfterDrop. Have layers ready when you get out and take off your wetsuit. Then move around, dance, to help your body to warm up naturally
Take care of yourself. Take care of each other. Take care of your beach. Take care of the water.
Libby DeLana is an award-winning executive creative director, designer, and art director by trade, who has spent her career in the ad world. She is the co-host of This Morning Walk Podcast with Alex Elle, has a 12-year daily walk practice and is the author of Do Walk: Navigate Earth, Mind and Body. Step by Step. @parkhere @thismorningwalk
ARMCHAIR TRAVELER: Sun Seekers: The Cure of California, by Lyra Kilston
Ever wonder how California became such a mecca for healthy, natural living, the birthplace of Esalen and land of Erewhon? It turns out the hippies of the ‘60s weren’t the first free-spirited worshippers of the state’s tireless sunshine and healing ocean-desert climates.
In Sun Seekers (which came out in 2019, but has completely obsessed us ever since), L.A.-based architecture and urbanism writer Lyra Kilston explores the waves of comers to the Golden State, beginning with the “health rush” after the Gold Rush of the mid-19th century, when the new trans-continental railroad carried packed cars of tuberculosis sufferers from the dank cities of the industrialized east, and eventually, a host of radicals, innovators and weirdos who fanned out among the orange groves in search of health. Pilgrims would soon include “The Hermit of Palm Canyon,” a German vegetarian nudist who became a tourist attraction; naturopathic doctor Philip Lovell, who preached the cure of sunbathing and walnut-date balls; and especially Viennese architect Richard Neutra, whose “raw-food architecture”—light-trapping Modernist homes of glass and steel with roots in hygienic Alpine health sanatoriums—would soon become a symbol of wealth and leisure. (All of these are depicted in the most amazing archival photos that are as vivid as the stories themselves.)
Of course, these purity movements (echoed in Europe) would have a shady underbelly—after nonwhite immigration surged in the early 1900s, the science of eugenics led CA to become the third state in the nation to legalize forced sterilization. But California is built on nothing if not hope and good vibes. In spite of the blanket of smog, cycles of drought with their attendant wildfires and mudslides, people continue to think that everything is better in California. As Kilston says, “California’s dense layers of mythology and cliché endure for better or worse, continually resurrected by new seekers grasping at that steady, sun-gilded mirage.” Guilty as charged. —Alex Postman
Use this link to preorder the book in its next printing.
TRAVEL WELL
Margo Marrone, founder, The Organic Pharmacy
Tell us about you and your company—what do you do and how did you get started down this path?
It all started as a Saturday job in my local pharmacy. I watched the pharmacist make lotions and potions the old fashioned way, using extracts and herbs in amber bottles. I was so curious about what they were, I decided to study pharmacy and specialized in pharmacognosy—herbal medicine. From there, I discovered homeopathy and decided to study it. It turned my life completely around as I discovered that healing starts with the fundamentals: food, mind, emotions and physical symptoms—and to help people you need to get to the root. It was here that I first discovered the chemicals that go into our food including pesticides, herbicides, toxins etc. it was also then that I discovered chemicals in skin care that were causing harm to our health, the idea of The Organic Pharmacy came to me as a place where people could come and get advice from professionals and a solution to their problems and have a beautiful experience, too.
How do you approach staying healthy and relaxed on the road/on a plane?
I make sure I hydrate before a plane, ideally with lemon water and coconut water. I also eat before flying and tend to avoid eating on a flight (plane food is often saltier and causes puffiness) and avoid alcohol altogether as it dehydrates. I stretch regularly and stay relaxed with a dose of magnesium and my crochet 😊.
Do you take any particular supplements prior to traveling or during?
I always take magnesium (Immune Boost Day) and Superantioxidants (for energy and also immune boosting).
Any strategies for dealing with jet lag?
There is a fantastic homeopathic remedy for Jet lag called Arnica/Cocculus—it’s brilliant to help reduce and minimize jet lag. Take 2 pills before flight, every 2 hours on the flight, and one dose after the flight. I also take Immune boost night before bed so I make sure I get a good night’s sleep.
Do you have any rituals you use while on a trip to reset and ground yourself in a new place?
I always travel with this small travel candle from Floral Street, a face mask, bath oil and my favorite book. I find a bath with a face mask (honey and jasmine post flight is a must) along with my favorite candle and book, make me feel right at home. I also always cleanse the room as soon as I come in with a space cleansing spray. I use this smokeless one from House of Roxy to avoid setting off alarms.
What are a few things you always pack for your beauty/wellness routine?
I always pack my skin brush. Every morning I skin brush without fail, followed by body oil (my favorite is the Advanced Retinoid-Like Body Oil). I also travel with the Carrot Butter Cleanser, Antioxidant Duo and Niacinamide Ultra 5 Serum and really take time to enjoy my routine and do a good face massage which also helps get rid of any puffiness post flight. If the hotel has a sauna or steam room or spa I dedicate a good half a day to enjoying that.
Any wellness/fitness practices that you do specifically while on the road/in your hotel room?
As my spiritual wellness practice, I generally start and finish my day with gratitude. I find it sets me in a place of higher vibration and humility. I also ask for forgiveness for anything I may have said or done and forgive anyone for anything they may have said or done. I find this really helps clear heavy energy and opens the path for a great day or night.
What are a few of your favorite wellness destinations and why?
One of my favorite wellness destinations is LifeCo in Bodrum. I love visiting off-season in April or May and find the simplicity, authenticity, and strictness exactly what I need. It’s such a beautiful spot to go hiking and the beachfront is so nice to relax when you are on a juice cleanse as well as the sunshine. I always discover a new biohack when I go—last time I was there I tried a new machine called the Biocharger and I could really feel the healing energy.
Where are you dreaming of going next and why?
There are 2 places I’d love to go next: the first is Six Senses Vana at the foothills of the Himalayas. I really want to experience the energy of the Himalayas and the expertise of Tibetan and Ayurvedic medicine it has to offer. The second is Kamalaya in Koh Samui—it’s a beautiful spot built on an ancient monastery, and so I can imagine the energy there must be incredible and the healing quite remarkable.
What is the best way for people to find you?
Via Instagram @margomarrone
MOODBOARD
1. In April, cult wellness brand The Ranch is opening a new Upstate NY retreat at the old JP Morgan estate in Sloatsburg, with shorter-stay boot camps (3 to 4 days)...and (phew) coffee.
2. Move over chicken noodle - “swamp soup” - made famous on TikTok - is a liquid inoculation of immune-boosting garlic, ginger, scallions and jalapeños.
3. A hotel we can’t shake since laying eyes on it: Kichic, a raw and intimate beach resort in a sleepy Peruvian surf town known for great waves and the freshest ceviche.
4. It’s the best time of year to visit the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve in the mountains of Michoacán, Mexico—for the next few weeks, you can see millions of Monarchs hanging like clusters of ripe fruit on the branches of oyamel trees.
5. Performance artist Marina Abramović has launched a new longevity method with Dr. Nonna Brenner, who healed her lyme disease through an unconventional approach involving leeches, energy treatments, and potent immunity drops, at Brenner’s longevity center in the Austrian Alps.
6. Cookbook author Nancy Singleton Hachisu started a GoFundMe to gather support for the local food and artisan community of Japan’s Noto Peninsula, some of whom lost workshops and homes in the January 1 earthquake.
7. At the Mustang Valley Sanctuary in Upstate NY, come face to face with rescued Mustangs, do yoga with the herd, and camp under the stars beside a rushing creek.
8. Our friend Blair Knobel shared this shortlist of monasteries in the American Southeast that welcome guests for retreats, with more in her first issue of Vessel magazine.
Libby’s write-up is a masterpiece!
Hi team, any chance your Egypt Black Book is coming out in the next month or so – headed there in three weeks, and keen for your Cairo, Luxor and Aswan recs.
Also any advice on packing really light in a carry-on only – I did a bit of a search of the archives, but if there's a particular article I should check out, I'd love a hint! Love your work as always.