Here and There #2

An editor friend who scours the world for niche beauty secrets; our new sneaker collab; channeling The Four Seasons-style Upstate NY friendcations; and our June Moodboard

I just landed in Rome this morning, where it’s 85 degrees and packed with summer visitors, but it’s also jasmine season, so nothing bothers me. I’m so excited for today’s lineup—if you’re beauty product obsessed like I am, you’ll love our interview with my friend Jamie Rosen, who I used to work with ages ago at W Magazine. For our fellow New Yorkers, we’ve rounded up our favorite rental websites upstate, since we’re so obsessed with the OG Four Seasons movie (credit where it’s due—it was the Tina Fey one that we wanted to like more which inspired us to rewatch the Alan Alda version). And lastly, the bits and bobs we’re excited about this month, along with the debut of what we hope will be your new travel shoe! —Yolanda

YOU SHOULD MEET… Jamie Rosen

By Carly Shea

Tell us a bit about yourself! How did you first become a beauty editor and what are you doing now?

Thanks much for having me on YOLO! I’m Jamie, a mom of two boys living in NYC. I started my career at W Magazine, where Yolanda was the photo editor (I can report she was kind and cool, even—and especially—when I was a lowly assistant). I moved to the beauty department after working in features and fine jewelry. Botox and fillers were just gaining popularity, and people were starting to be more open about what they were doing for themselves outside of "sleep and water." I quickly realized that beauty is so expansive—it encompasses movement, dermatology, plastic surgery, travel, wellness, and the science behind product development. I never saw it as something superficial, especially once I started meeting the chemists and doctors and facialists and makeup and hair artists behind it all.

After working as the Beauty Director of Town & Country for several years, I started Office of the Surface. We work with luxury beauty, wellness, tech and travel companies on brand development, storytelling, consulting and content. I've also recently started a Substack of the same name, inspired by beauty texts from my friends about what really works, from serums to surgery. And I still do editorial from time to time, because I can't totally stay away.

What are some places you’ve been where you’ve found the beauty culture to be most inspiring? Favorite bring backs from those places?

I’m always interested in places where there are built-in practices of care, from spending time at hammams in Istanbul to a deep knowledge of skincare in Eastern Europe and South Korea.

I traveled to Seoul with Alicia Yoon of Peach & Lily to write about how the wealthiest people there take care of themselves. We went to an anti-aging country club called Chaum, where the chefs knew every member’s diet according to one of eight “constitutions” determined by pulse.

I went to Austria to learn how to chew at Lanserhof, but also to slap myself in a freezing cold forest to stimulate circulation. I use the Stelton jug I brought home from there almost everyday. It keeps liquids hot forever, even overnight.

I also love experiencing a culture through scent. So often it is connected to the trees that come from the region. Copal, the resinous sap from the Protium copal tree, is such a hallmark of Mexico. I brought home a copalero from Terreo Studio's shop in Tulum. It's a spotted stone sphere where you can burn copal or any cone incense inside.

Most interesting spa experience?

A lunar gong sound bath with Valerie Oula at The Well in New York is like a cosmic symphony that reverberates in your body. You’re lying on a yoga mat with an eye pillow and a blanket in a roomful of people, but once that gong starts, you’re in another dimension.

The Retreat Hotel at the Blue Lagoon in Iceland is such a complete experience, with communal geothermal lagoons, swim-up bars to get juices while you soak with a silica face mask, and private cabins to slip away for spa treatments.

You were just in Japan and went to some pretty epic beauty stores in Tokyo. What were your favorites? And what did you come home with?

I learned about Hakuhodo from my very well-traveled friend Andrea Saper, and it was a really wonderful surprise: an entire store that sells just brushes, both for face makeup and painting canvases. I bought these really cute stubby kinoko brushes made with red lacquer and glossy maple handles for my family. I also bought lots of matcha in Uji, the birthplace of green tea, and some fun makeup sponges and foot masks at Don Quijote.

Are there any “only in Japan” devices or ingredients you were on the hunt for?

I was extremely focused on incense. Japanese incense from Kyoto and the island of Awaji is the kind with no bamboo core. Instead, they are made with a dried resinous powder that disintegrates as it burns. My favorite sticks came from Koju in Tokyo, which has been in business since 1575! I also picked up these pebbled and porous golden dice at Kungyokudo in Kyoto. You put a few drops of incense oil on them, and they can subtly perfume a small space. There was another item I was on the hunt for but sadly I didn't find it— a spray that creates a cotton pad on contact! Unfortunately it was limited-edition, but that did not stop me from asking for it in every pharmacy I visited.

We’d love to hear more about the crazy gadgets—travel flat irons, face masks, and anything else!—you were excited to discover.

Yodobashi Akiba is a department store of electronics in Tokyo with an entire floor devoted to beauty gadgets, from battery-operated matcha whisks to electric razors that fit in the palm of your hand to LED face masks, vibrating eye masks and foot pads. The only thing I brought home was a very cute travel flat iron.

Tell us about the onsen you went to! And how did your kids like it?

We went to Beniya Mukayu in Kaga. It really lived up to all my ryokan fantasties. The food was some of the best we had in Japan, with hand-drawn menus every night. There must have been fifteen little bowls and plates for each individual Japanese breakfast, from miso soup to a wire rack with warm air to keep seaweed sheets fresh. Everything was done with such warmth and precision, two of my favorite things for any service experience.

My kids loved to soak in the onsen hot spring bath in our room but were a bit too shy to do the communal one with the other men in the hotel (They're 13 and 11, tough age to do that with strangers!). It was a really nice counterpoint to samoyed cafes and gachapon machines on Takeshita Street in Harajuku. We stayed two nights. Think three would've been a stretch for the kids.

And we’ve got to hear more about that horse placenta facial…

Okay, to be fair, it was actually pig. There was a bit of a language barrier, which led to the confusion! The application itself was not crazy, but I did have these mesh strips and plastic over my face, and the bed was on the floor. Placenta has been used forever in beauty, but most Western brands now use bio-identical versions, so it was fun to experience the real thing.

In your Substack, you mentioned the etiquette of not wearing anything scented to restaurants (which, I’d never think of!). Have you encountered any other interesting cultural “beauty etiquette” tips in your travels?

A bathing culture that has a no-big-deal attitude about nudity—from an onsen to a hammam to a temazcal—still feels surprising to me. The idea of 'let's get naked and scrubbed together and chat and it’s normal' is not something I grew up around, but I love that there is no preciousness around it and it’s really about relaxation and conversation and gathering together.

Dream hotel bathroom setup: what’s in the shower, by the sink, and in the vanity kit?

This is a fantastic question. It's strange how much pleasure I derive from seeing my toiletries perfectly laid out on a towel by the sink. Maybe it's because I don't have a lot of counter space at home.

In terms of amenities, when there is a little mouthwash, I'm delighted. I'm also particular about cotton. I dislike cotton balls and love a large round, so ideally the bathroom is stocked with multiple packs of three or four rounds. Those I treasure. At the Rosewood in São Paulo, they had weighted head pillows and bowls of bath salts at the edge of the bath, a vanity with a perfectly-lit mirror, and little leather cords to tie-in up your chargers. There are certain spaces where you know someone thought of every detail, and this is one of them. And it's hard to beat the outdoor shower at GoldenEye in Jamaica with local soaps resting on a tree stump.

In-flight skincare: yes or no?! And if yes, what is your routine?

This has become such a performative activity online! But I have to admit I love doing a skincare routine on a long-haul, overnight flight before I attempt to go to bed. If it's a late flight, I'll try to wash my face in the lounge before I get on the plane. I'll use the time on the plane to layer on a heavy moisturizer like Weleda Skin Food or an oil serum like the Beauty Sandwich Secret Sauce. I'll also slather cream on my feet before putting on socks.

A treatment you’d get on a plane for?

A $1,000 massage with Ryu Bae, the "Star Face Maker" of South Korea. She does a full-body massage that claims to reshape your face, and is popular with K-pop stars. Her whole belief is that over time, the face gets wider and longer due to muscle strain, poor circulation, inflammation and tension, so she works on the head and body to sculpt the face and put you back in alignment.

A product you won’t get on the plane without?

8G Greens tablets, Donormyl (a French pharmacy sleep aid), Zofran and Aleve stored in Cadence capsules. And I'm usually wearing these Malia Mills pants.

Best massage… I once had a massage that was choreographed with classical music at Bliss in Soho that I still think about.

Best facial… Vinida Savant in Paris. I met her at the Biologique Recherche spa on the Champs-Élysées, but she now has her own space in Montmartre.

Best spa… The Dolder Grand in Zurich has the best relaxation areas: pebble-shaped baths filled with stones, ice rooms, a pool, and excellent treatments.

Best foreign pharmacy… Love a Swiss pharmacy for that combo of French SPF and German Gehwol Foot Cream

Best duty free… Anywhere I can buy Smarties

Best sunscreen… Vacation

Yolo x Goral Sneaker

I was first introduced to the British brand Goral several years ago through my husband, Matt, via the menswear scene. They sent us two pairs of their Mellor sneaker, white and navy. I took the white ones and wore them to death (and still do), while our deputy editor, Alex, took the blue ones. After seeing her wear them in everything from dog walking attire to a business meeting with a blazer, I was jealous. I tried to buy them, but they had discontinued them in that color, so I suggested we bring them back and do a Yolo sneaker together. Alex and I are so obsessed with them—in comparing notes, Alex loves the comfort of the super-cushioned heel, especially for all the walking she does while traveling, and I love that I can wear them like slip-ons, never unlacing them, but also that they are so perfectly minimalist and un-shouty.

I love that this is truly a sustainable sneaker—Goral only makes shoes to order (meaning they aren’t over-producing and just hoping that the inventory moves). Also, they come with a lifetime guarantee, so you can send the shoes back for resoling and refurbishment—including a new leather insole and fresh pair of laces!—which is amazing.

Yes, it’s more expensive for a sneaker ($305 US), but it’s a classic shape that’s completely timeless—with a choice of white, black or gum soles—made according to classic principles of shoemaking. And knowing you’re supporting a small company out of the UK that’s making them to order is something you can feel good about. And we’re doing men’s sizes, too! Here’s the link!

Channeling… The Four Seasons

While everyone we know of a certain age is streaming The Four Seasons remake on Netflix—Tina Fey’s take on the 1981 Alan Alda classic about three couples who vacation together four times a year—we weren’t so into it, and instead, decided to rewatch the original. Yes, it’s peak Alda: neurotic, cardiganed, and full of tender monologues about marital drift. But it also gave us a serious craving for a weekend in a big creaky (or modern!) house in upstate New York with old friends, boating and hiking, group-cooked dinners, and just enough drama to make you grateful for your own relationship.

Hillsdale, NY

So we did some quick searching and emailing to turn up a few lakeside rental houses and agencies that fit the friendcation fantasy. And if you need active distraction from each other, ICYMI, here are our guides to Beacon/Hudson/Rhinebeck, Sullivan County and Delaware County in the Catskills, and The Finger Lakes.

Perch Lake

Red Cottage, according to several friends, really has one of the best curations of Upstate NY vacation rentals—become a member for $500/year for discounts on each stay. We love the look of The Homestead lakefront estate in Sullivan County, which has a big lawn for touch football (channeling Fall in the movie!) and sleeps 22 (some of the rooms are a little granny-ish, but you won’t be spending that much time in them). Sleepy Hollow Lake cabin in Athens has its own pond with canoes, sleeps 10. And Perch Lake in Andes has its own dock and a wood-burning stove for cold nights; sleeps 6.

Callisto Hilltop House

Emma Tuccillo, who founded the excellent Upstate guide site And North, has a section called Stay North with some great house recommendations - sort for Catskills, Columbia County, or Dutchess County. These caught our eye: The City Farmers Upstate in Taghkanic, which has a creek, access to hiking, and sleeps 12; Camp Catskills, a contemporary chalet in Tannersville (no lake); and Callisto Hilltop House, with a fire pit and 63 rolling acres to hike on (sleeps 12).

Darby A-Frame

We just learned that NY State owns and rents cabins & cottages that are cheap throughout state parks—from tiny lakeside log cabins to multi-story modern houses!

Highland, NY

Our friends at Boutique Homes, which curates hand-picked, design-forward properties, have some super nice ones, including this 164-acre estate on its own lake in Highland (7br/sleeps 29—perfect for a milestone birthday weekend!), a 3BR 19th-century farmhouse bordering a regenerative farm in High Falls, and this vine-covered 1770 Georgian in Poughquag (only sleeps 4, though).

Poughquag, NY

Emma Harding, founder of Re:Agency who has a house upstate, recommends this really beautiful house, “perfect for friends/groups - great in the summer with the pool. And this one is a sweet one too on the other side of the river—very cozy in winter with big glass windows overlooking the snow and the hot tub/outdoor fire.”

On Wander, we spotted this ultra-modern 3BR Hillsdale Lakeside house with lots of land, overlooking the lake (whose many windows could channel another 1981 classic, Body Heat).

Jenni Kayne’s Farmhouse

And a few we spotted on Airbnb: a 4 BR Lakefront in Livingston Manor; 4BR river access with a woodburning tub and sauna in Hunter; an adorable modern cabin on a pond in Phillipsport that sleeps 6 and was featured in Dwell, and Jenni Kayne’s farmhouse in Tivoli, where you can try out her furniture line (4BR)—it’s booked out for the coming weeks, but keep an eye out for cancellations.

June Moodboard

This leather water bottle holder designed by our friends at Lutz Morris is a very chic solution for water, but also hot coffee—the bottle itself is double-walled stainless steel, and keeps beverages cold or hot for up to 12 hours.

Among all the other exciting art happenings on the Upper East Side (the Frick reopened last month, and the Sargent show at the Met has a whole section devoted to his paintings inspired travel), one of our favorite artists, Michael McGregor—known for his playful drawings on hotel stationery—has an exhibit on view at Dan Yoshii Gallery now through June 27th.

If you’re planning on taking trains in Italy and haven’t done it much, check out our friend Elizabeth Minchilli’s post, where she completely demystifies everything from how to buy tickets, to videos on what business class looks like, so you can decide if it’s worth it.

We recently discovered Wabunka, a platform to book those impossible-to-find experiences in Japan that we wouldn't even know to search for—architectural tours of the former Nintendo headquarters, Zazen meditations, and traditional wabi firework-making workshops.

In hotel news: We recently got a sneak peek inside the Waldorf Astoria, reopening this summer after an extensive (and expensive) multiyear year renovation, which was very thoughtfully carried out by an army of preservationists and craftsmen. Les Bassans in Brittany is the latest hotel to join the Fontenille Collection, which has uber chic properties in beautiful locations across France, Spain and Italy. The Colony Palm Beach has a new sibling, The Hedges, in East Hampton. Hotel Wren, a reimagined 1940s roadside motel, just reopened as a 12-room desert retreat 10 minutes from the entrance of Joshua Tree National Park. And Collegio alla Querce is the first Auberge hotel in Italy, which just recently opened in a Renaissance-era villa set in the hills above Florence.

In the absence of our own podcast (we promise we'll get to it), here are the travel podcasts we’re listening to: Unpacked, Travel Secrets, The Grand Tourist, and Gone to Timbuktu.

Love that Away just launched kids’ suitcases.

If you need to get your dog across the Atlantic and have the luxury of time, this seems like an even better (and cheaper!) option. And ICYMI, Alex Chantecaille recently shared her review of two pet-friendly airlines with us here.

Transporting images of Palm Springs from frequent YOLO contributor Jonathan Ducrest are available for purchase on his just launched site, PalmSprings.art.

Eyeing these sunglasses—Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy’s favorite—from Selima Optique, which are all handmade in France.

Rita Sodi and Jody Williams’ beloved NYC West Village Bar Pisellino pops up at Villa Lario on Lake Como all summer, with their signature Palazzo Negronis, Sgroppinos, and views that are just a tad better than 7^th Avenue.

In our Spain-themed print issue last summer, we published a list of the festivals throughout the country—from national celebrations to hyper-local traditions—worth traveling for. If you’re looking for last minute diversions in June, we’d head to the Haro Wine Festival, a “wine battle” in La Rioja on the 29th or Saca de las Yeguas, a 500-year-old horse festival that takes place every June 26th in Andalucía.