Here and There #4

Terry cloth obsessions, the best food tours in Paris, and our July Moodboard (clever host gifts, cool hotel openings, and Gloria Steinem’s Beach Book!)

CHANNELING… ‘60s Terry Beach Vibes

Can a fabric make you feel like you’re on vacation? Can wearing terry relax you? I don’t think there exists a more summer-y material! Even if we’re just walking around the house and decidedly not on vacation, its soft, beachy texture makes us feel like we are. It used to be harder to find—just a terry polo or pair of shorts—although in vintage I’d see it in long caftans, short dresses, even ponchos. I couldn’t be happier to see so many brands using it this season, and am stocking up on the below—even if a bigger piece can be a bit bulkier than its cotton or silk cousin, it doesn’t wrinkle!

When I saw my friend Melissa wearing this dress on vacation in Sifnos, I DM’d her immediately. I’d never heard of the Spanish brand La Veste before, and now not only do I want the dress, but also these shorts, this pareo, and this coverup.

On the hat front, I want this from Australian brand Lack of Color, this one from Zimmermann, and this one from Sundek.

This terry cloth polo from Kule is excellent, and this jacquard polo has real swagger.

Love this Eres mini-dress in navy.

Suzie Kondi has the most perfect pieces made in terry—from t-shirts to palazzo pants and even a chic one-shoulder dress. But these kick flare pants, this sleeveless tee in navy, this red and white striped tee and pants, and these shorts in clover are all in my shopping cart.

These terry shorts have a non-hugging quality, coupled with the cream color, that has a certain elegance.

This new-to-me brand Cap d’Antibes is 100 percent terry–I like their ‘70s-vibe short shorts and these pants with little poms on the bottom that make them go from almost sweats to party pants. And this little black dress.

While a terry blazer isn’t so advisable for carry-on-only types, it’s so chic to throw it on post-dip to walk up to the hotel bar and order a Campari spritz.

These James Perse pants and tops are made with French terry, which is smoother and softer than terry cloth—and some colors are on sale right now!

Tombolo makes more maximalist terry pieces than we would usually reach for, but this terry polo could easily go from the pool to lunch, and their collabs with Le Sirenuse, Explorers Club, and Boston Whaler are so fun.

This retro Simone Fan dress transcends the cover-up category and could be dressed up for dinner.

Terry Toweling makes a great jacket and shorts set (on sale now!) that leans more cool coastal aunt than off-duty lifeguard.

Doesn’t this yellow terry tank dress from Dannijo just scream summer?

Lisa Marie Fernandez makes a very cute ‘70s inspired polo bodysuit that would look so good with these tennis shorts.

YOU SHOULD MEET: Meg Zimbeck, Paris by Mouth

When we were working on our giant Paris Black Book and subsequent print issue, we asked our contributors about their favorite food tours, and Paris By Mouth was the unanimous favorite. We were already familiar with their Substack, which is a treasure trove of food intel—covering the surprising seasonality of goat cheese to the anatomy of a perfect baguette and meticulously indexed lists of their favorites by arrondissement, cuisine, and open times that sent our Virgo brains into overdrive. To wrap up our Paris coverage, we knew we wanted to talk with founder Meg Zimbeck, who knows the ins and outs of the city’s food scene like nobody else and lives the dream of researching and reviewing its restaurants full time. 

Tell us a bit about yourself! What inspired your move from the U.S. to Paris?I moved to Paris in 2004 to work on a European Commission research project on reproductive health. I'd been working at a policy think tank in Boston, and Paris seemed like a fun adventure. I never imagined that I would stay more than a few years, or that I’d eventually quit my job to be a food writer.

What prompted the shift from a career in public policy to one in food?

I had been in Paris for five years, falling in love with food and dabbling in writing about it. The latter was initially just a hobby, but more and more publications started asking me to write for them. I realized one day that I was earning more from this freelance writing than I was in my real job. I was also realizing that life is short and that it wouldn't be too scary to take a big swing. If I fell on my face, I could always go back to my old career, right? So I taught myself WordPress and started Paris by Mouth, not expecting that it would last very long.

Was food always a big part of your life? Were there any formative meals, cookbooks, or early food memories that nudged you in this direction?

Absolutely not! I grew up in Kansas and subsisted on Doritos and Diet Coke for most of my teen years. My parents’ tastes were typically midwestern (hello, casserole!), and I was a picky eater until college. Moving to Paris broke something open inside of me. I had never before cared about fruit, but during my first week in France I found myself eating a ripe Reine-Claude plum over the sink with juices dripping down my chin, laughing like I was on drugs. Why was it so delicious? And what was up with the French butter? And the incredible yogurt? Was this what chicken was really supposed to taste like? Could bread really be this good? And so on. 

Juveniles

You started Paris by Mouth 15 years ago, and in that time you’ve reviewed hundreds of restaurants across a constantly evolving dining scene. What are a few enduring favorites that still feel special every time?

There honestly aren't a ton of places that I loved in 2010 and still return to regularly. Restaurants evolve, chefs move on, and I've changed, too. But Chez Georges still hits for classic French food and atmosphere. Juveniles is still the family-run small bistro of my dreams. I'll never tire of the view or wine list at La Tour d’Argent.

What about Paris’ food scene has changed the most in the years you’ve been there?

The linguistic barriers have fallen away. Today, almost every restaurant accepts online reservations, so there's no need to struggle on the phone in French. A lot of restaurants offer menus in English or have servers who can help in your language. That wasn’t the case when I moved to Paris twenty years ago. Of course, it’s still incredibly useful to be able to greet (bonjour) and ask (s’il vous plaît) and thank (merci) in the local language.

When you started PBM, was running food tours always part of the plan? 

There honestly wasn't much of a plan. I jumped into this without knowing much about how websites make money (ours never did, but the Substack newsletter does!), or what might come from all this writing. But a reader asked if we might put together a food tour for them, and a light bulb went off. I put together a few routes that highlighted what I thought the French do exceptionally well—cheese and charcuterie, baguette and pastry, chocolate, wine and so on. I wanted to showcase things that told a story about this place. They sold out almost immediately. In the beginning, it was just me leading the food tours, but demand grew and we now have an amazing team of food writers, ex-chefs, sommeliers and other food nerds who lead tours for Paris by Mouth. The food tours are a huge part of what we do, and they keep us in touch with what food-minded visitors want out of Paris.

Do you have a favorite tour to lead?

I love all my children, but the Left Bank food tour is pretty special. We visit my favorite place in Paris for a buttery croissant and then the 3 subsequent stops for cheese, chocolate and pastry are all run by artisans who hold an MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) distinction. That title represents the highest level of craftsmanship in France and can only be earned through a competition that takes place every four years. French people are still so very serious about food (I love it!) and the Left Bank food tour is a great way to experience that.

It seems like TikTok virality has hit Paris restaurants especially hard (we miss the old Chez Janou!). What else feels like it's been spoiled by social media and what’s your hope for how travelers approach the food scene now?

I hear you, and while I shake my head at the crowds outside of Chez Janou (across the street from my apartment), I mostly don't feel the difference. For the most part, TikTok crowds have descended on places that weren't on my radar, or were never my favorites. The TikTok crowd isn't making reservations three weeks in advance for a two-hour restaurant meal. They're hopping between bakeries and sandwich joints and doing caviar bumps at natural wine bars. And good for them! If they're enjoying Paris in that way, I'm happy. I write for a different audience—travelers who want something truly delicious and are willing to do a little research in order to find it.

What’s a piece of dining etiquette you wish more visitors practiced?

I wish that people (including me) could be more present at the table. I take a lot of photos, and this really gets in the way. It muddles the human interaction with my server. It dampens my sensory appreciation of that wonderful moment when a dish lands steaming in front of me. When I'm not on the job, I rarely take pictures of my food or touch my phone at the table. It's so much more enjoyable!

In August, do you beeline out of the city or enjoy the quiet?

These days, I beeline out of the city. I've spent many, many summers in Paris, and they can be great. But August isn't ideal for reviewing restaurants, since so many of them close for summer vacation. We do have a guide to which Paris restaurants are open in August, for those who are sticking around.

Lissit

What’s your idea of a perfect summer day in Paris?

In the morning, before it gets too hot, I'd like to spend some time reading outside at one of the benches along the Seine. If Shakespeare and Company is too crowded (it often is these days), I'll pick up a book at Messy Nessy's Cabinet and maybe stop for a breakfast sorbet from Berthillon on my way to the bench. Lunch should be outside, and somewhere shady. The Maison Cluny has a beautiful outdoor terrace nearby (for other ideas, we have a selection of favorite outdoor tables). After lunch, perhaps a visit to one of my favorite small and weird museums (the big ones are too crowded in the summer). I love the Musée de la Chasse et Nature, which pairs contemporary art and taxidermy, and the Grand Galerie d'Evolution, a totally bonkers natural history museum inside of the beautiful Parc Floral. After a late afternoon nap, I'd like to drink some cold wine on a terrace and share some small plates. Current favorites for that include Trouble, Le Cornichon, and Lissit.

Any advice for scoring those impossible-to-get reservations?

My advice is to not stress about getting into one particular place. Find a few options within each category that you want to experience (check our 50 Favorites for inspiration), figure out when they're open and what fits best with your schedule, and book the ones you can get into. There isn't a single restaurant that's going to transform your life. Having said that, for the ones you really want to score, set yourself a calendar reminder to book exactly 21 days ahead of your desired date (or whatever their website tells you is the number of days in advance that reservations are released). I often have post-it notes on my computer with the names of impossible restaurants I'm hoping to book. When I notice the note, I give it a go. It usually doesn't work, but if you try often enough, it sometimes does!

Favorite French foods to cook at home?

I eat a lot of salad at home, with inspiration from the Substack newsletters Department of Salad and To Vegetables, With Love. But when I want to cook French food, I turn to Dorie Greenspan and David Lebovitz, both their cookbooks and newsletters. 

What restaurant have you gone to the most?

The bistro Juveniles, in Paris. I just love it.

Belleville; Maine & Loire

Since you also spend summers in Maine, do you have any go-to spots that feel like a little slice of France? 

I've just moved to Maine (dividing my time between here and Paris) and the food scene in Portland is crazy. Belleville on Congress is on par with the best bakeries in Paris (get the cardamom bun). Sissle & Daughters has incredible provisions and a world-class cheesemonger. Maine & Loire is the source for wines from my favorite French region. Blanche + Mimi has some adorable French tableware that I would pounce on if I hadn't already brought my own from Paris.

Okay, a few speed round questions…

Meal you’d fly to Paris for (what and where)... The stuffed cabbage from Café des Ministères

Favorite edible souvenir… I bring sea salt and butter every time I fly from Paris. 

Favorite arrondissement for food… The 11th. It doesn't boast any monuments or tourist attractions, but it's the best neighborhood for restaurants.

Favorite restaurant open on a Sunday… Amâlia for a special tasting menu, or Soces for seafood

Favorite recent discovery… I'm crazy about Lissit, a new wine bar in the 11th. It's easy-going with wonderful service and phenomenal small plates from chef Claire Grumellon.

Dream dinner guest… Ruth Reichl—what an inspiration! I just had the chance to interview her for our newsletter (to be published in August), and I could talk with her for hours. Her newsletter is the second best thing to sitting around a table.

July Moodboard

After an 18-month renovation, the Delacorte Theater in Central Park is reopening in August with a production of Twelfth Night—starring Lupita Nyong'o, Peter Dinklage, and Jesse Tyler Ferguson. Best of all, tickets are free as part of the Free Shakespeare in the Park program. Our friends and contributors Megan McEwen of In Hand and Christine Chitnis, author of Patterns of Portugal, are hosting a trip to the slow, soulful Alentejo this fall. The region of Portugal is known for its pottery studios, textile mills, and craft heritage, and it would be so fun to dive into that with Christine—who literally wrote the book on it.

Petanque boules as a clever host gift—especially if you’re headed to a friend’s house with a big lawn. This chic set from our friends at Il Pellicano fits the bill.

The famous Michelin-recognized CDMX taqueria Cariñitos is popping up in Greenwich Village at 86 University Place for the next six months!

A replica Pan Am flight with all business class seats is taking off next spring on a multi-stop trip around the Pacific. If you have $100,000 and 21 days to spend, this seems like a pretty cool way to do both!

Did you hear about JetBlue’s 25 for 25 Challenge? If you fly to 25 different airports before the end of the year you can earn up to 350,000 points and 25 years of Mosaic status.

On the topic of points, we’re intrigued by Journey, a new loyalty platform for boutique hotels that just launched this week. Now you can earn and redeem points for stays at independent hotels we already love like Nihi and Castle Hill Inn, plus hundreds of rental properties (why didn’t Airbnb do that a decade ago?!).

We are already fans of the Cadence parcel and capsules, and they just launched more sizes of their parcels for things like full-size toiletries and hair tools.

In hotel news: The Royal Portfolio has just opened Masiya’s, with six pink tents designed by Liz Biden in South Africa’s Thornybush reserve. Speaking of tents, Under Canvas opened their newest camp on 120 acres in Washington’s Columbia River Gorge, their first location in the Pacific Northwest. On the Italian front, Castello di Vicarello just opened their first standalone villa, Villa La Vedetta, a 12^th-century watchtower that was meticulously transformed into a two-bedroom suite with sweeping views of the Tuscan countryside. Further south in Matera, there are two new hotels on our radar; Vetera Matera, which has suites carved into the rock from the family behind Bellevue Syrene in Sorrento; and Palazzo Gattini, which is above ground, with views over the ancient city. And if you’re headed to Milan this summer, Portrait Milano is doing all sorts of fun pop-ups in their courtyard—a tennis court, an open-air cinema, outdoor concerts and a gelato stand, ovviamente, that are open to hotel guests and the public. And we just learned about Casa del Limonero, a restored 15th-century palace in Sevilla that was acquired by a French art collector who transformed it into a 14-room museum-hotel filled with remarkable pieces by Gio Ponti, Eames, Olga de Amaral, and Manolo Valdés. Bonus: there’s an outdoor pool, hammam, spa, citrus garden, and a rooftop with views of the Giralda—and it’s a Costa Meno!

If you’re trying to keep cool in NYC, The Mark Hotel has ticketed sunset sails throughout the summer catered by Jean-Georges where Champagne and caviar flow freely that anyone can book on Resy.

It seems like everything is on sale right now! We’re eyeing this Anya Hindmarch travel bag.

If you’re looking for something to read by the pool this summer, check out our massive travel-inspired reading list here.

ICYMI Ina Garten is on Substack now and just dropped a summer “Mini Cooper Ride” playlist that’s exactly what we’d imagine Ina Garten listens to in her Mini Cooper with the top down.

Gloria Steinem's seriously underrated first book, The Beach Book, is not only a fun anthology about beach life, but the lining is foil, so you can tan while you read about the art of tanning.

We love this whimsical collaboration that our friend Tamu McPherson did with Milanese brand Bitossi Home—the perfect picnic basket bag, ruffled cocktail napkins, and beautiful ceramic plates are all you’d need for an aperitivo along the shores of Lago Maggiore (or wherever your summer travels take you).

This genius towel has a built-in backgammon board so you have one less thing to carry to the beach!