POSTCARD FROM... Asturias, Spain
Annie O. Waterman of AOW Handmade writes in from this wild and rugged coastal region of northern Spain
HELLO FROM…
Asturias, where the Cantabrian Mountains meet the ocean in the northwestern corner of Spain. Roughly a third of its territory is protected, so there’s still a sense of discovery and wildness as you walk or drive from one village to the next. Much of the area traverses through Camino del Norte, a gorgeous 865 km (537 mi) walking route. It’s an unpretentious region that allows you to get a feel for real life—the people are reserved but warm and easy to speak with once you engage.
I stayed in Llastres and really enjoyed it as a base to explore the rest of the region. It’s a low-key, funky place—don’t go if you’re looking for anything fancy. For me, that’s the beauty and charm of it.
THE BEST MEAL I HAD…
A long, beautiful lunch full of scallops, crab and cider at La Tortuga, in the fishing village of Tazones. Plus we loved Bar El Muelle in Lluanco, a local spot where you can enjoy fresh seafood by the harbor. And El Escanu in Lastres, our favorite spot to people-watch and enjoy the local cider.
When you’re in the area, in addition to the cider, try the variety of Cabrales blue cheeses and of course grab a bowl of fabada, a rich white bean and sausage stew.
MOST FUN THING I DID…
The region’s seemingly endless walking trails were a highlight. There’s something for everyone, from the beautiful Picos de Europa National Park for more adventurous hikers, to calm coastal trails that connect small fishing villages, where you can stop to enjoy a long lunch with breathtaking coastal views.
On one memorable day, we packed up some locally made empanadas for a picnic and walked along the coastal trail from Llastres to Playa de La Isla before taking a dip in the sea.
AN ARTICLE I WOULD RECOMMEND BEFORE YOU GO…
In this link!
A THING OR TWO I LEARNED…
When you have cider in Asturias, it is poured into a wide-mouth glass from high above and is meant to be drunk quickly, in one go. Pouring from high above improves the cider’s aromas, flavors and texture.
BEST THINGS I’M BRINGING HOME…
As someone who travels in search of craftsmanship around the world, I’d love to have found a special piece of pottery, but that is not quite what Asturias is known for. Instead, I’d recommend stowing away some of the amazing cheeses or a bottle of cider to share with friends back home. If you are interested in bringing something handmade back from Asturias or following the craft trail, check out Artesania de Asturias for atelier addresses.
Normally I find great pleasure in deciding what to bring back, but there was something quite nice about not needing anything. I was able to enjoy the simplicity of the place for its nature and food, and the sense of rejuvenation that comes with being just present in the greenery and fresh ocean air.
Annie O. Waterman is the founder of AOW Handmade, which links artisanal producers to global markets.