Postcard from…Provincetown, MA
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Postcard from…Provincetown, MA
Peter Som’s favorite salt-kissed cabins on a fishing wharf, go-to for a lobster roll, galleries that channel the town’s artistic spirit and the best spot to drop anchor & swim alongside pods of seals
By Peter Som
I’ve been coming to the tip of Cape Cod every summer for decades because it’s truly a magical place, where classic East Coast ease meets the beauty of the surrounding nature (especially the harbor)—but it’s also a vibrant and colorful scene with tons of restaurants, shops and shows. The town is steeped in history—the Pilgrims actually landed here first before heading to Plymouth—and then became a major fishing and whaling center with a large population of Portuguese sailors and their families settling here. The early 20th century saw P-town established as a haven for the LGBTQ+ and arts community—its secluded destination at the very end of the Cape, along with its windswept beauty and charming shingled homes, has become a beacon and a year-round destination (but especially summer) for me and so many others.
Where I’m staying…
There are many house rentals and inns in P-town (including Captain Jack’s Wharf, where I stay), but the AWOL Hotel’s sea-facing vantage point at the west end of town can’t be beat. Chic salt-kissed nautical neutral rooms with balconies that face the stunning marsh—it’s minutes to the beaches and the perfect respite from the hubbub of town.
The best meal I had…
Sal’s is the restaurant I return to multiple times, where proprietress Siobhan Carew presides over the most inviting room (and deck) featuring elegantly simple and super delicious Italian fare. Once that pillowy focaccia lands on the table, I know it’s going to be a perfect evening. I always start with the cauliflower caesar and the meatballs to share, and then either have the oven-roasted whitefish with tomatoes, olives and capers—so buttery tender and bright, and comes with a side of linguine aglio e olio—or the lobster linguine alla vodka. Sal’s doesn’t do dessert per se; a plate of chocolate fudge squares with a hit of flaky sea salt is the perfect sweet bite to end the meal.
Also… a lobster roll for lunch at Canteen is a must (with a side of their crispy brussels sprouts).
One more…I can’t be in P-town without having the oysters Rockefeller and a crisp martini at Pepe’s Wharf.
Most fun thing I did…
Water is key in Provincetown, where the bay empties out at low tide so much that you can almost walk across it on foot. Every summer we rent a pontoon from Flyers Boat Rentals and spend an afternoon on the water. We drop anchor near Long Point beach, splash about alongside pods of seals (don’t get too close, though!), drink crisp rosé and listen to the sounds of the birds and the waves.
The book I read (and would recommend)…
I’ve read Land’s End: A Walk in Provincetown by lauded Pulitzer Prize-winning author (and P-town resident) Michael Cunningham many times—the book explores the dynamic and complex history of the town in his rich and vivid prose. It’s a true homage to this delightfully special place and makes the perfect beach read.
The playlist on repeat…
My playlist in P-town truly is the sound of the tide slowly coming in, the seagulls and the sound of a martini being shaken. Now that’s a symphony I love hearing!
A thing or two I learned…
There’s always something to discover in P-town. Stop in the Provincetown Public Library for a moment of escape from the hubbub of Commercial Street outside; marvel at the architecture and check out the 55-foot replica of the schooner Rose Dorothea inside—it’s massive!
The best thing I’m bringing home…
P-town has long drawn artists to its magical light and idyllic setting. Robert Motherwell, Helen Frankenthaler, Jackson Pollock, Lee Krasner and so many more set up studios during the summer months back in the day, and that creative spirit is still alive in the east end of town filled with galleries and anchored by PAAM (The Provincetown Art Association and Museum), where I also picked up a few whimsical pinch bowls by Jobi Pottery, which has been in operation since 1953! One of my favorite design store/galleries is Room68, where I fell in love with works by Massachusetts-based artist Dana Piazza—and yep, I bought a few.
Also….stop into John Derian’s shop where his stellar signature home décor curation selection is on display (I always snag a few Astier de Villatte plates or bowls).
Peter Som is a fashion designer, culinary creator and lifestyle expert. His website features his original recipes as well as fashion, living and design. He’s currently working on his debut cookbook.
Postcard from…Provincetown, MA
Swimming with seals? Have you looked at the Sharktivity App lately? Would not recommend!
My favorites are Pepe’s Wharf, s drink at the bar both Top of the Pot Lobster pot, Fanizzis both local hang outs right on the beach. Yup, love Sa’s place, Canteen and an evening drink at The Red Inn, the view! Good drinks and good food. Ride a bike everywhere! Flip flops, cool casual and straw hat!