The Jackson Hole List
Just back from one of our favorite western towns—with great snow, amazing food, and the chicest ski lodge—we pooled our recs with friends who know it well so it can become your favorite, too.
GUEST BOOK: Caldera House, Teton Village, Wyoming
By Alex Postman
Best for… Group or family ski trip in a semi-private, ski-in/-out chalet situation
The location… Right at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort in Teton Village, just a short ski-booted walk from two of the gondolas and iconic tram that connect you to 2,500 acres of skiable in-bounds terrain, along with an open-gate backcountry system with access to over 3,000 acres of additional terrain.
The vibe… It’s modern mountain style, dialed in by L.A.-based Commune design—starting with the cozy lobby: woven textile-wrapped sofas and floor pillows on cowskin rugs around a stone fireplace. Caldera House opened in 2018—the passion project of Milwaukee Bucks co-owner Wesley Edens and three investor friends, all ski fanatics—and quickly became the most exclusive stay in this Teton-ringed valley (aka “hole”) that has been seeing a steady run of gentrification. Although the lodge is intimate—there are four 4-room owners’ suites and four 2-room-suites—Caldera House is also an alpine clubhouse for local members to access valet parking and ski storage/tuning, ski-in ski-out access, locker rooms and three restaurants. So despite its small size, a fun and friendly energy infused the public spaces day and night.
The rooms… Our group of four stayed in one of the 4-bedroom suites. The huge living room-kitchen—which, like the lobby, is swathed in tasteful western hygge with Moroccan rugs and jewel-toned sofas—overlooks the lower mountain through huge glass doors which lead to a balcony with a gas fire pit. The sleek, slate-grey kitchen is appointed with everything you could dream of needing—plus a full bar, and a plethora of après ski sugar fixes—a shelf of jars holding Oreos and gummy bears, and a freezer drawer stocked with ice cream sandwiches and frozen Snickers. The bedrooms are each a variation of light wood and warm fabrics, richly tiled bathrooms with big soaking tubs, including a sweet bunk room that sleeps 6. There’s also a media room that’s a cocoon of floor pillows and long, sultrily lit hallway lined in the owner’s contemporary art collection. But one of the best features was the huge mud room, where we could organize all of our ski gear without a confusion of boots and helmets.
The food… Even before I’d made a reservation here, friends had recommended eating at Corsa, inspired by the snug rifugios of the Italian Alps. We’d had a big lunch in Jackson (the town is about 25 minutes from the mountain) and were tired, so didn’t want to leave Caldera for dinner. We split a plate of the lightest crispy fried artichokes, herby meatballs with garlic bread, and a funghi pizza with a perfect chewy crust. Because we’d neglected to make a reservation and couldn’t land a table right away, we were given a spot on low couches near the fireplace, which turned out to be even better. The place was pulsing—with several big groups of guy friends (after all, the month is nicknamed “Manuary”), the Negronis were excellent and the wine pours very generous (the list leans Italian, with some unusual international bottles). Also on premises, though we didn’t try them, are a 30-seat sushi spot, Shin Shin (Jackson is weirdly known for its sushi, more on that below), and the Southcable Café on the mountain side, with a fueling breakfast burrito, pizza and sandwiches—a good lunch spot to avoid the mountain cafeterias.
The wellness… Caldera has a small spa area with an infinity hot plunge (a cold plunge is in the works), dry sauna and fitness/yoga studio with free classes. Book a massage therapist in your room—or use one of the Theraguns in each suite for sore quads.
Be sure to… Use the attentive concierge service to book excursions in the Grand Teton National Park next door—snowshoeing and dogsledding in winter, hiking and SUP yoga in summer—or adventures like backcountry guided skiing out your door or heli-skiing/hiking in The Canyon or Teton Pass. Also take advantage of the Mudroom—one of the best features of staying here is this on-site ski shop where you can rent your equipment (which they store and valet for you) and upgrade your goggles or parka with temptingly cool brands.
Parting words… Caldera House is definitely a splurge. But if you stay with two (or four!) families or a bunch of friends, it amortizes pretty well and the convenience is priceless.
Date of stay… January 31-Feb 1, 2024
Alex Postman is Yolo Journal’s deputy editor.
THE JACKSON HOLE LIST
The town of Jackson is about 25 minutes from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort at Teton Village. People tend to prefer staying in one or the other: serious skiers will want first tracks when they roll out of bed, whereas those who come for the western town vibes or don’t want to ski every day will like the accessibility of a true walking town with good restaurants, cute shops and galleries. (Though several of the hotels do run daily mountain shuttles.) While Jackson has seen a steady wave of gentrification over the last decade, it still retains its cowboy soul—as Christian Burch, co-owner of Mountain Dandy and other beloved local boutiques told me five years ago, “I always said there will never be a Gucci on the town square. I hope I’m right.” (When I recently reminded him of it, he wrote, “I think I might take the word ‘never’ out of my quote at this point!”) That said, Jackson is full of rustic charm and rugged, Teton beauty in both winter and summer, and has a way of making converts who never leave. Here are a few favorite addresses of the converted to get you started. —A.P.
Our Contributors
Lela Rose is a fashion designer originally from Texas who is based between New York City and Jackson Hole, where she recently opened a new boutique.
Christian Burch has lived in Jackson since 1994, and together with his partner John Frechette have reshaped the town’s retail scene, with their stylish family of artisan-focused shops including Mountain Dandy, Made, M and Mursell’s.
Kathryn Brackenridge transplanted here 20 years ago from the East Coast, working all sectors including a decade of running PR for Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and most recently as the former executive director of The Jackson Hole Travel and Tourism Board.
Emily Tess Katz is a television producer and the Senior Director of Development at Wavelength Productions. She lives in Tribeca but is a burgeoning expert on the American West.
Olivia Lopez is a frequent flier based between Los Angeles and New York. She is the host of “The Art of Travel” podcast and founder of Bon Weekender, a full-service creative studio.
Adam Rapoport, a longtime magazine editor, directs content for brands, including Powered by People, a wholesale platform that connects a world of sustainable makers with retailers in North America.
Alex Postman is deputy editor of Yolo Journal.