Bric-a-Brac 18
Just Back From the Suvretta House in St. Moritz, wellness & wildlife travel tips from a beauty expert, and Ask Me Anything about planning a trip to Italy!
ASK ME ANYTHING! BUT FIRST…ITALY!
I still get tons of direct messages on Instagram asking for very specific travel advice, so I decided to launch a series of travel planners over the coming weeks by country—starting with Italy, then moving on to France, Greece, Spain, Portugal, etc.—to help you plan your spring/summer in Europe (and beyond). Just make sure you ask in the comments below—not on IG! I’ll take your questions, the Yolo team and I will do our research and come back to you with answers from us and our expert Navigators!
JUST BACK FROM…
Last week feels like a year ago, since I’m currently writing from the Buchinger Wilhelmi clinic in Germany, where I’m on day 3 of a 14-day fast. (More on that in a future post!) Since we were heading in this direction, and with nonstop flights only twice a week from Bordeaux, we decided to make a pre-fast trip in the area. I had lots of different ideas (visiting the Alsace region which I’ve never been to, returning to the Burgenstock, hiking in the Bregenzerwald), but, ultimately, we ended up in St. Moritz to meet up with some dear friends. I know some people are surprised I like St. Moritz with its reputation (well deserved) of being expensive and attracting a glitzy crowd—but it also has a more low-key local crowd who live there year-round, and super cool old-school spots that are actually reasonable…well, by Swiss standards (everything is expensive). I’ll be putting together a Black Book in the next couple of weeks, so stay tuned!
We stayed at the lovely Suvretta House, a 1912, belle-époque style hotel—built during the heyday of the glamorous Grand Hotel era in the mountains—which is a 20-minute walk/5-minute drive from the center of town. At first I thought this was going to be a drag, but actually it’s the best of both worlds. I’m so not a skier (though Matt is), so for him and any of you who ski, this place is heaven. You literally walk out the front door and across the road is a tow lift that brings you to the main lift that gives you access all over the mountain. There’s an amazing ski rental area where you can rent everything you need, even a jacket and pants, so you could basically show up with nothing but gloves. Meanwhile, I spent my mornings at the hotel gym, in the steam room and in their spa (I had a treatment where they detoxify the back—who knew?!), and having breakfast solo in the very traditional dining room with the most epic spread. They have their own in-house bakery, so they pile an entire long table with breads and pastries. There are, of course, all sorts of local cheeses and meats, along with the other breakfasty things you’d expect.
There are several other restaurants within the hotel, including the cozy Stube, though we decided to sit outside on its sunny terrace and eat fondue and and cakes (detox prep!). Right next to it is a restaurant just for children (which made me wish we had covered this place for Cookie magazine back in the day). The Grand Restaurant is a formal affair (dark jackets and ties are a must for men), with tableside steak tartare (the best we’ve ever had), a champagne trolley, a cheese trolley, a refreshing classic menu that ranges from beef Wellington to wild venison, and a finale of tableside flaming crepes Suzette! Their other two restaurants are on the slopes—Chasellas is at the base so you can go for dinner, and is a cozy, charming spot where we had the best schnitzel of the trip. Trutz, a lift ride away, is where “everyone” goes for lunch—it has the most epic people watching, especially with that beautiful snowy winter light that makes everyone look like a movie star. (Naturally Douglas Fairbanks and Gregory Peck have stayed here, not to mention Thomas Mann, Gianni Agnelli and Eva Perón.) But above all of these details, there’s a sweetness to the Suvretta. At breakfast, you see three and sometimes four generations sitting together at a table. In the afternoon you see families ice skating out front, and in the evening you tuck into a cocktail in front of the fire, with the most thoughtful staff taking care of you.
COPY THAT
On our recent trip to our house in the Médoc, our friend Jean-Charles Cazes invited us over for Sunday lunch. For dessert he served us this dessert—which is so simple to make, and perfect during citrus season!
Orange Slices with Cinnamon and Orange Blossom Water
Ingredients for 6 servings
6 navel oranges
2 tbsp orange blossom water
Cinnamon
Granulated sugar or honey
Directions
Peel oranges, remove pith, and cut into 1/4” slices.
Add orange blossom water to the oranges, arrange on a plate, cover, and refrigerate for an hour or so. Before serving, sprinkle cinnamon on top and, depending on the sweetness of the oranges, you could opt to sprinkle a little granulated sugar, or drizzle a little honey.
TRAVEL WELL Q+A
Alex Chantecaille, VP Sales & Promotions, Chantecaille
Tell us about you and your company.
Chantecaille is a family-founded skincare and cosmetics company built on highly effective naturals and calming ingredients. We are also passionate about wild animals and wild places in nature and give back to those charities actively. I travel a lot for work, as I oversee our teams in the U.K., France, and Australia as well as here in the U.S. But when I can, I travel because I absolutely love adventure and new experiences, and to see how other cultures and people live, which gives me perspective and energy. I’m a true Aries—I love spontaneity and newness and the freshness of discovery.
Do you think any differently about wellness travel in light of the last couple of years?
It’s so stressful with Covid—the last-minute testing, the cancellations, the hysteria! To be as comfortable and safe-feeling as possible is paramount. That means wearing easy slip-on/slip-off shoes for security (Allbirds are great), button-free pants to sleep in when onboard (like American Vintage cashmere “sweatpants”) and Pure Rosewater to spray around and on my face throughout the flight.
How do you prepare your body and mind differently for a trip today than you might have in the past?
I think positively and go with the flow. I almost didn’t make it out of London the other day because I had just completely forgotten to get a Covid test before flying out, but I ran to a place right away and asked them—and my guardian angels—to send through the results in 45 minutes (versus 4 hours!) and miraculously they appeared in my inbox right at the moment the agent was asking to see them.
Do you take any supplements prior to traveling?
I ramp up on Vitamin C and D for immunity—and snip half a Xanax to sleep on the plane.
Do you pack any specific tools for exercise on the road?
No, but I always pack a bathing suit, as a swim in a hotel pool is the best de-jet-lagger I know of.
Do you bring any foods from home for your trip?
Not really—I love discovering local delicacies. In Barcelona the other day, I went to the boqueria and got fresh dates, dried plums and apricots, as well as some jamon and manchego that my mom and I nibbled on throughout the week in our hotel room.
Do you do anything special for your skin before or during your flight?
When I’m still at home, I use our Anti-Pollution Mattifying Cream as a protector against the nasties floating around from the jetway—plus it acts like a great blurring BB cream with no pigment. It makes you look smoother and less red and fully protects against irritants getting past the barrier layer of your skin.
Once nestled onboard and in flight, I’ll slip into the lav and lather on our Gold Recovery Mask, which is like a thick face cream—it’s lightly golden and provides really nice blanket-like protection, soothing redness, plus it feels so comforting. I apply our Gold Energizing Eye Masks before I go to sleep—they’re see-through and saturated with seaweed, so not obvious at all. They help with puffiness and dehydration, smoothing and plumping the under-eye area, so I look brighter and fresher upon landing. Also, total black-out during the flight is a must, both visually and auditorily. I love Slip silk sleep masks and Beats headphones (I even wear them without listening to music!)—they’re slim and easy to sleep in.
Compression socks, or no?
Yes, when I can find them! It’s like a massage and then you can actually slip your shoes on no problemo when you land. I also like a cozy cashmere sock that I won’t cry if I tatter up a bit on the flight—Naked Cashmere makes these delicious mile-long ones that double as leg warmers.
How do you stay warm on the plane?
I don’t love the blankets they give you on board, so I always pack a large cashmere scarf to wear around my neck. I have this epic pebble-grey one from Petria Lenehan—an Irish-based artist who made the most durable and softest shawls (I think I picked it up at Clic). I also prefer to wear cotton directly on my body to breathe—I love James Perse & S.K.U. for base layers and then an undyed alpaca sweater from Industry of All Nations.
Thoughts on combatting in-flight anxiety?
Reading an actual book is very calming. The act of holding something and mentally thinking of something else is really helpful. I’m currently shlepping Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts around the globe on my long-haul flights—it’s the most interesting/transportive story on redemption and humanity, about an escaped convict who finds himself in Bombay. I couldn’t be more ready to head to India! I also love writing while in the air—it’s a great time to solidify big thoughts and put paper to pen for big plans. I love a quick sweep thru McNally Jackson’s stationary shop for interesting Japanese pens and slim (spineless) notebooks. I actually find the time in air to be a moment for inspiration.
How do you stay hydrated?
I pack a Swell water bottle that I fill often—I love how easy it is to fill in airports these days.
Alcohol, or no?
Yes, just a glass or two of red with dinner. Although I gladly took the complimentary champagne when I just barely made that flight from London!
Any wellness routines that you do specifically while on the road?
I’ve recently started to take Colleen Saidman’s classes at Yoga Shanti in Sag Harbor—and her online classes are great to do while traveling. I love her energy—very relaxing, and she’s kind and funny. I will stretch and do a simple yoga routine in the a.m. and enjoy long hot baths in the p.m. I used to love jogging, but now a long walk in a public park is just fine by me and my knees.
What is your favorite moisturizer to travel with?
Our Camellia and Lavender Balm is excellent for healing, sealing, and soothing skin, especially for highly dehydrated hands, wind and sunburn-healing, scraped-up noses and upper lips from over Kleenex-ing. It’s from our Bébé line, but it’s almost like a first-aid kit for skin and extreme conditions.
Any strategies for dealing with jet lag?
Xanax—it’s a game changer. I take half of one on the plane and actually sleep, and then another half at night when I’m in the new country/time zone and, again, I can actually sleep through the night. I only discovered it this past year and I can’t believe I wasted so many sleepless nights being cranky during work trips for so long!
What are a few of your favorite wellness destinations?
I find being in nature is more relaxing and revitalizing than destination spas. I love Sedona, Arizona—the energy when you hike in those red hills is so powerful. I can’t wait to get back to Enchantment Resort there. I once took myself to the San Juan Islands off of Washington State and hiked, spotted redtail hawks, glamped, and spotted orcas off a tiny boat—that was an awesome trip that filled my lungs with fresh air and fed the soul. Manka’s and the Post Ranch Inn, both in Northern California, are so romantic and just immerse you in beautiful Pacific scenery.
I adore Africa—my whole family does, as Chantecaille does a lot of philanthropic work there, especially in Kenya. It just feels so enlivening and elemental to be out in the bush, surrounded by wildlife. When we go, we prefer to stay places that are very open to the outdoors. On our most recent trip just before the pandemic, we stayed at Ithumba Camp, near Tsavo East National Park, which is owned by our partners at Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, known for their orphan elephant rescue program; it’s near to where they reintegrate adolescent elephants into the wild. Then we spent some time at Knondo Kwetu, a super chill, thatched-villa style resort on Diani Beach along Kenya’s east coast, with the clearest water. We ended the trip in canvas tents at Enasoit Camp in Laikipia, Kenya, which is right in front of a watering hole that attracts a steady stream of elephants, giraffes and other animals that drink from it.
I also loved the The Amanwana in Moyo, Indonesia. Aman always does such a good job of merging nature and culture; you feel submerged in the surroundings in a really nourishing way. Their safari-like tents are right on the beach, with daily scuba excursions and hikes. The snorkeling was amazing—neon giant clams and tiny translucent shrimp.
But the best, most pulse-racing trip of my life was sailing through the Arctic Sea and hiking to see polar bears on a live-aboard with scientists. We were hosted by the NGO, The Perfect World, and guided by the very capable and highly engaging experts at ExpeditionsResor.
Where are you dreaming of going next and why?
Blackberry Farm—because, come on, it’s supposed to be so well done. Iceland—for the wild nature part, less Blue Lagoon. The wilds of Patagonia/Bariloche to flyfish and horseback ride in the valleys by the insanely gorgeous landscape, and Rajasthan, India, with our friends and partners at SUJÁN at their Jawai and Sher Bagh tented camps, where you can see wild leopards and tigers!
Hi there Yolanda! I love reading about all of your adventures! My husband, 8 y/o son and I will be going to Italy in June, first to Rome and then to the Amalfi Coast (probably Sorrento). Any intel re: off-the-beaten path type stuff, and also, anything that might be of special interest to an 8 y/o boy (hopefully he will be in awe of the Coliseum, but he is not a museum-goer!!)
Yollie, we will be in Puglia, Matera and Naples in May. We have booked our stay, but any places we should not miss, any restaurants and shops also, please let us know. Thanks so much. Cinda and Steve
that you know about,we would really appreciate. Thanks. Cinda and Steve